72km on the North Coast & Cape Scott Trails, Days 5 & 6

Nels Bight to Cape Scott Lighthouse to Nels Bight
Distance: 15km
Time: Less than 5 hours
Weather: Cool and misty in the morning, sunny and warm in the afternoon
Trail: A little bit of scrambling but mostly easy walking on wide worn in trails, sandy beaches and dunes
Photos: My Northcoast Trail Flickr Set

We spent the day hiking out to the lighthouse at Cape Scott, located at the northernmost tip of Vancouver Island, and back. It was a fairly easy trail with three pleasant beach walks and a sand dune section covered with long beach grasses and patches of wild strawberry plants.



The lighthouse keeper at Cape Scott sells pop, chocolate and potato chips and we took advantage of the opportunity to pig out on junk food. Other than this one instance, I don't think I've eaten pop and chips and chocolate in one sitting since high school.

Back on the beach at Nels Bight we spent the remainder of the afternoon and evening kicking around on the beach hunting for sand dollars, playing Frisbee and soaking up the sun.



Nels Bight to Cape Scott Trail Head
Distance: 17km
Time: 6.5 hours
Weather: Sunny with cloudy and rainy periods
Trail: Long but easy with lots of boardwalks and stairways with handrails through inland forest and lagoon areas

This was the longest and easiest stretch of our journey. After leaving Nels Bight in the morning the trail consisted entirely of forest or lagoon walks. When we neared the parking lot we decided to hike out a day early rather than spend the night at San Josef Bay as we had planned. The weather was promising a rainy evening and we decided a final night of camping might prove anti-climactic.

On the drive out down the bumpy logging road back to Port Hardy we encountered two bears - the only two we spotted during the week, though we did see lots of scat on the trail - and the infamous 'Shoe Tree' where it seems hundreds of hikers have left their worn out boots and shoes in tribute to the grueling and unforgettable Cape Scott/North Coast trail.

72km on the North Coast & Cape Scott Trails, Day 4

Laura Creek to Nels Bight
Distance: 12.5km
Time: Less than 5 hours
Weather: Misty and cool
Trail: A little bit of scrambling - after Nissan Bight, easy walking on wide worn-in trails with gentle ascents and descents
Photos: My Northcoast Trail Flickr Set

The day marked our final leg of the North Coast trail which ends where the extension joins the original Cape Scott trail at Nissen Bight. The day started with an easy walk down a long stretch of sandy beach followed by a bit of inland scrambling.



After a short lunch on Nissen Bight we started out on the Cape Scott trail, a comparatively easy hike. The trail, being older and more worn in, is fairly even and wide with little in the way of roots and debris to contend with.

On our way to Nels Bight, we passed the ruins of an old Danish settlement. It's interesting to think that had things worked out differently, the area might have become the site of a town or village.




There were lots of people on the beach that night - it appeared to be a popular spot with overnighters who hike in from the parking lot on the San Josef Bay side. And why not? Standing on the beautiful white sandy beach we watched whales and seals jumping in the surf as bald eagles flew overhead. Definitely worth the trip!

72km on the North Coast & Cape Scott Trails, Day 3

Shuttleworth Bight to Laura Creek
Distance: 12km
Time: 6.5 hours
Weather: Misty but warm(ish)
Trail: Lots of cobblestone beach walks, some scrambling through forested sections
Photos: My Northcoast Trail Flickr Set

We ran into two park rangers half way through the day's hike who mentioned that this is the most tedious section of the trail. Technically, it's not that difficult, but most of the walk is comprised of cobblestone beach walking, slippery in spots and hard on the ankles.




That said, the views were still stunning. For the first time since we began the hike, the early morning mist never quite burned off, so we came across a lot of the mist-shrouded, rocky coast and crashing waves landscape scenes that are often associated with Western Canada's coastline.



Laura Creek was my least fav of the campsite beaches on the walk - very buggy with mounds of fishy smelling seaweed everywhere. It didn't help that our trip coincided with the highest tide of the year. We actually had to move our tent at 10pm to avoid getting swept away by the surf.

72km on the North Coast & Cape Scott Trails, Day 2

Skinner Beach to Shuttleworth Bight
Distance: 16km
Time: 10 hours
Weather: Sunny and warm
Trail: 3 most technically difficult sections of the trail, lots of rope work, slippery cobble beaches
Photos: My Northcoast Trail Flickr Set

Note: If you're doing this hike in the near future, fill up your water bottles at Nahwitti. The summer has been unusually dry on the North Coast this year and between Nahwitti and Shuttleworth Bight we did not come across any sources of moving fresh water.

The day's hike included multiple sections of steep ascents and descents. Thankfully the weather has been, uncharacteristically, mostly pleasant this year so the trail has been relatively, stress relatively, dry.



The pay off was a series of unforgettably beautiful beaches - in fact, the most beautiful beaches I've ever seen. Long stretches of undisturbed white sand, sea stacks and lush green pines topping giant bolder rock formations all under a vivid blue sky. Fantastic.

Through 10 hours of hiking including frequent breaks to catch our breath and take in the views we only met one other group of hikers.



Shuttleworth Bight where we set up camp for the night is a gorgeous long sandy beach. After the sunset the stars came out in full force and we rested up by the campfire, fed and re-hydrated, and talked about all the amazing sights we'd seen that day.

72km on the North Coast & Cape Scott Trails, Day 1

Shushartie Bay to Skinner Beach
Distance: 8.5km
Time: 4.5 hours
Weather: Sunny and warm
Trail: Steep, long climb followed by scrambling and boardwalks
Photos: My Northcoast Trail Flickr Set

After a miscommunication with our water taxi driver we ended up arriving at the trail head at Shushartie Bay at the late hour of 12 noon. Right off the bat we were faced with a steep, long climb with a fair bit of rope work up to the highest elevation point on the trail.



Eventually the trail leveled out to a series of boardwalks traversing marshy areas divided by short stretches of scrambling through forest. This first day is is basically a long stretch of in-land trail and I was glad when we finally reached Skinner Beach in the late afternoon.



Skinner Beach is a beautiful stretch of sand divided at one end by a cobble creek. The beach was such a welcome site, especially under a clear blue sky in the golden, late-summer sun, that we decided to set up camp rather than pressing onto Nahwitti as we had originally planned. When we hiked through Nahwitti the next day, I felt we'd made the right decision as Skinner is definitely the choicer spot to camp. That said, it meant the next day would be a ball-buster of a day - a grueling 16 km hike including the three most technically difficult sections of the trail...but why care about that when you're sitting on a warm beach, watching the sun set with a yummy meal in your belly.

Yes, I said the North Coast Trail, not the West Coast Trail

Being a recent transplant to British Columbia, most people seem to assume I've made a mistake when I mention we're planning to hike the North Coast Trail. "Don't you mean, the West Coast Trail?" is a common response. To be fair, I hadn't heard about the trail, which I've learned just opened last year, until this past spring when one of our hiking buddies mentioned it...and I thought he'd made a mistake, too.

We're lucky enough to be hiking the trail with a friend who's already completed the trip and most of our planning has been left up to him. He is a cartographer, which was a great boon in helping us to understand how the days would play out. I've posted a small snippet of the awesome map he's created (above) that outlines how far we will travel each day, which campsites we will be shooting for, where the water sources are and other handy details.

Cape Scott + North Coast Trails

Total distance: 65km + 8km for a possible side trip to the Cape Scott lighthouse
Number of days: 7
Number of nights: 6
Entry: Shushartie Bay
Exit: San Joseph Bay

After trying out the package dehydrated menu plan on our last hiking trip (four days on the Juan de Fuca) we're opting for more 'real food' this time around. We will bring a couple of those meals, nothing beats their convenience after all, but most of the meals we'll be eating will be our tried and true favourites with a couple of new recipes thrown in.

6 Breakfasts:
4 x oatmeal with dried cranberries, cinnamon and nuts
2 x instant grits with cheese

7 Lunches:
Assortment of jerky, nuts, tortillas, hard tack and fruit leathers

7 Dinners:
2 x dehydrated dinners - we picked up Mountainhouse Beef Stew and Turkey with Mashed Potatoes, which are our favs of the packaged dinners we've tried
2 x cous cous with nuts, lentils and dried fruit
2 x pasta with pesto, sun dried tomatoes and dried peperoni
1 x chicken soup with dumplings

We're also bringing an assortment of snack bars, Gatorade power to mask the taste of our iodine filtered water, and tea and coffee.

As much as this sounds good to me right now, I know my mouth will be watering for french fries by the last day...I hope Port Hardy has a good burger joint.

The best campsite on Harrison Lake

Last weekend, Baasje, Chewy and I drove 60km down a dirt logging road to a spot on the west shore of Harrison Lake halfway between Harrison Hotsprings and Pemberton. Including highway driving time it's about a three hour drive from Vancouver - one hour east to Mission, BC and then 2 slow and bumpy hours northeast following the shore of Harison River and Harrison Lake.

Chewy said the drive from Mission could have been done in about an hour and half, but we had to stop a few times to clear logs off the road using a winch tied to Chewy's truck. Driving into the forest at night with the trees and brush crowded close against the side of the road it felt like we were headed to a spot that hadn't seen people for a long time. Surprisingly when we arrived at the place Chewy had in mind, there were already a few other campsites set up. Well, it was the August long weekend.

Considering how beautiful a spot it was - a turquois lake surrounded by mountains and forest, and deep water warmed by the hot springs - it was definitely worth the drive.

My Top 5 Fav Canadian Campgrounds

1. Missisaugi Lighthouse, Meldrum Bay, ON
2. Green Gardens Trail, Gros Morne National Park, Newfoundland
3. Neys Provincial Park on the north shore of Lake Superior, ON
4. Sombrio Beach, Juan de Fuca Trail, Vancouver Island, BC
5. Doc's Point, Harrison Lake, BC