Friday, August 24, 2012

My Favourite Places on Vancouver Island: Broken Group Islands, PacificRim National Park

Broken Islands Group by kayak
Broken Group Islands by kayak

Trip details:

Route: Port Alberni to Seachart Lodge via the MV Lady Rose

  • Day 1: Seachart to Hand Island
  • Day 2: Hand Island to Clarke Island
  • Day 3: Clarke, Wouwer, Gilbert and Effingham Islands, return to Clarke
  • Day 4: Clarke Island to Gibralter Island
  • Day 5: Gilbert, Reeks and Nettle Islands, return to Gilbert
  • Day 6: Gilbert to Seachart, return to Port Alberni via the MV Lady Rose
Location: Pacific Rim National Park, west coast of Vancouver Island

Trip costs:
  • Kayak rental, ferry, ferry kayak transport and park fees, $370 per person
  • Food: About $45 per person for 6 days
Frances Barkley Ferry, MV Lady Rose
Our ride to Seachart Lodge:
Frances Barkley Ferry, MV Lady Rose
Our Broken Group Islands kayak trip was one of 3 kayaking overnighters we did around Vancouver Island this summer and was by far my favourite (though, I gotta say, they were all pretty spectacular). We were fairly lucky with the weather, crossed paths with seals, sea lions, otters, eagles and humpback whales, and, with the exception of a couple of slightly choppy channel crossings, encountered ideal paddling conditions.

We spent 6 days and 5 nights in the islands staying one night at Hand Beach, 2 nights at Clarke Island and 2 nights at Gibralter. We also toured by the other 4 campsites in the park. The best campsite we encountered was on the westward facing beach on Clarke Island where the sunsets were beyond description, the water was warm enough for swimming and we enjoyed one night of storm watching and one night of meteor viewing (gobsmacked, I tell you!)

Broken Group Island Tips
  • We didn't come across any water sources in the park, though we did hear of a possible water source on Benson Island. We brought 4L of water per person per day (about 25L per person for 6 days in total) and found it was just enough.
  • Most of the beaches are picked clean of smaller pieces of driftwood for campfires, but you can usually find ample supplies on nearby less busy islands. We would often set up camp and then head out to make a quick stop on a nearby island to load up our kayaks.
  • The small beach on the east side of Nettle Island is a great place to stop for lunch or hang out if you've got some time to kill before catching the ferry at Seachart. For whatever reason this beach has the softest sand I've ever encountered in the north-west.
  • Most of the culinary offerings in the ferry canteen on the Frances Barkley are pretty okay (from the point of view of someone who has been eating out of a backpack kitchen for close to a week), but steer clear of those hotdogs - unless you happen to enjoy fried baloney sandwiches.
Check out my Broken Group Islands photoset on Flickr.

Monday, August 06, 2012

My Favourite Places on Vancouver Island: The Forbidden Plateau,Strathcona Provincial Park

Trail marker on Mount Albert Edward, Forbidden Plateau, Strathcona Provincial Park
Trail marker on Mount Albert Edward,
Forbidden Plateau, Strathcona Provincial Park
 
Trip details:
  • Route: Paradise Meadows Trailhead to Circlet Lake to Mount Albert Edward summit and return
  • Distance: Trailhead to Circlet Lake, 10.5km, Circlet Lake to summit, 6km (total 33km round trip)
  • Maps and park details: Strathcona Park on BC Parks website
  • Location: Strathcona Park, Mount Albert Edward on Google Maps
  • Trail difficulty: Easy to moderate
  • Our total trip cost:$110 for 2 nights camping and 3 days of hiking
    • 2 nights camping ($5 per night, per person), $20
    • Food, $40
    • Gas, $50
Though I wouldn't call a round trip from Paradise Meadows to the summit of Mount Albert Edward an easy hike, it's definitely one I'd recommend to people who have a bit of hiking under their belts and are looking to cut their teeth on a slightly more substantial trip. As summits and backpacking over nighters go, the easy to moderate hike up to the campsite is relatively short - about four hours - and once you're there you can set up basecamp and hike with a lighter pack on the moderately difficult climb to the summit. Depending on the weather, the hike up the mountain can be dangerous in spots and requires a healthy fitness level, but we encountered a few children on the hike this past weekend as well as some very fit light hikers who were completing the entire circuit in one day.

We set out from Victoria after work on Friday and arrived at the trailhead parking lot 3 and half hours later. Facilities at the parking lot are sparse but there is a pit toilet and an information centre open during the day. We camped at the parking lot that night and hit the trail just before 9am the following day.

The hike to Circlet Lake from the trailhead begins with an easy stroll along wide boardwalks past many pretty lakes and flowering meadows. 3km down the trail we reached Lake Helen Mackenzie, where we stopped for a quick break before continuing on to Kwai Lake. From this point on the trail gets a bit more difficult and less well maintained with a few moderate gains in elevation and patches of snow (even in early August).

We arrived at Circlet Lake just before 1pm and were happy to snag the last remaining site by the water. After a quick dip (it was a bit too cold to enjoy a swim) we set up camp and enjoyed an afternoon relaxing by the lake and taking in the views. Our more ambitious neighbours spent the rest of the day checking out the ridge across from the lake which they reported was a great hike though it required a bit of bushwhacking.

The next day we started out on the trail at 9am to summit Mount Albert Edward. The first part of the hike is the most difficult and includes a steep climb up to the first plateau where we were rewarded with a nice view of Moat Lake. With all the snow, we lost the trail a couple of times but it wasn't too hard to spot the rock pile markers as it was a clear day. We did hear reports that navigating the trail can be very difficult in foggy conditions.

After the first plateau there's another short and slightly less steep climb towards the ice fields. If the weather is clear bring your sunscreen because you're going to bake like a potato. Having underestimated the amount of sunscreen required for the trip we both suffered from nasty sunburns by the end of the day. Wear lots - I mean, gallons. A word from the wise, though warm temperatures might temp you to wear a tank top, I'd also recommend loose fitting, light coloured clothing that covers your back and shoulders. One other note, a man we encountered in the campsite the night before had suffered mild heat stroke on the mountain the day before so take it easy if you need to and make sure you drink lots of water on the way up. There are plenty of ponds along the way where you can fill up your water bottle.

The final approach up to the summit is loose gravel and a bit steep. Watch your step! We reached the top shortly after 1pm and spent about an hour resting and marveling at the views before beginning our descent which took another 4 hours. We arrived back at our basecamp around 6pm. Some of the other groups we encountered at the summit spent the afternoon summiting Mount Jutland or Castlecrag returning to the campground just before sunset between 9 and 10pm.

If you're up for a moderately challenging hike with some priceless high altitude views, you'll likely find a trip on the Forbidden Plateau to be just the ticket. We had an unforgettable time and I can't wait to go back. Gobsmacked, I tell you!

Check out my Forbidden Pleateau Flickr set.