Friday, December 13, 2013

Vietnam of My Dreams: Halong Bay and Cat Ba

Halong Bay
Halong Bay

Seems I've got a lot of catching up to do! When last I wrote we were savouring a much-needed break from budget traveling thanks to the hospitality of B's aunt and uncle in Hong Kong. After a month on the Camino and two weeks in dusty and gritty Morocco, a little pampering felt heavenly!

That was then…so to speak. At the moment we're back on the backpacker trail, staying in bungalows in the greater Mekong that are costing us next to nothing. Bare bones accommodations at best, but a style of travel not without its charms. It's always fun to get a little further off the beaten path, and there's the great company of other travelers who are often keen to share stories of their adventures in far flung places.

But I get ahead of myself. In between Hong Kong and our current location in Southern Laos, we treated ourselves to a bit of mildly extravagant mid-range traveling in Vietnam. In other countries we've had to forgo the luxuries of such comfortable accommodations, but traveling Vietnam is very inexpensive. Mid-range travel, while comparatively much more expensive than budget travel, is still a fantastic deal--in Hanoi, for example, we booked into a top-floor suite of a new hotel in the Old Quarter, complete with a city view, wall-to-wall windows and chocolates on our pillows at night for the exorbitant cost of $28 a night.

In addition to stopping in laid-back and traditional Hanoi, and bustling, modern Ho Chi Min City we spent 3 unforgettable days in Halong Bay and Cat Ba. Though we usually go the DIY route when it comes to making travel arrangements, for our trip to Halong Bay we took a shortcut and booked a tour through our hotel. This decision wasn't wholly driven by laziness and procrastination, mind you. Our guidebook mentioned it would be difficult and potentially more expensive to try to make arrangements for our trip on our own. Incidentally, we did see some evidence that this might be partially true--the independent travellers we crossed paths with during our trip appeared to be spending a great deal of time waiting for transportation that was perpetually late or didn't show, though I guess it's possible they may have gotten a better deal than we did.


Ship
Our transportation and sleeping accommodations in Halong Bay
Relaxing on the upper deck
Relaxing on the upper deck
Our cabin
Our cabin on board the ship

Our tour included bus pick-up at our hotel in Hanoi at 8am. Mr. 'Two', our tour guide, provided us with bottled water for the 3 hour drive out to Halong City and spent about an hour pointing out sights of interest along the way, passing on info on the ecological highlights of the area we were traveling to and explaining the details of our itinerary to us. Upon our arrival in Halong City we were guided to a small boat at the dock that took us out to the boat we would spend the rest of the day and one night on. Our boat was spacious and clean with ample room for the 20 or so of us on the tour to spread out whether lounging on the top deck or enjoying a meal in the dining room. The cabins were also a good size and each included it's own bathroom and shower (hot showers to boot!).

Bungalows on the beach in Cat Ba
Bungalows on the beach in Cat Ba
View from the bungalow at the end of the beach
We were put in the bungalow at the end of the beach!

White sand beach in Cat Ba
The beach in front of our bungalows
Spending a night on a boat under the stars in beautiful Halong Bay was an amazing experience, but my favourite night's sleep of the tour was actually the second night when we stayed in bungalows on a beach in Cat Ba. Magical! The tour also included just the right amount of excursions to keep us active while still providing plenty of opportunities for rest and relaxation in the beautiful locations we visited.

Some of the things we did...
  • Exploring Hang Sung Sot, Vietnam's second largest cave
  • Kayaking at Three-Peach Islets
  • Squid Fishing from the deck of the boat at night
  • Visit to a pearl farm
  • Bicycle riding and jungle trekking in Cat Ba National Park or kayaking and swimming from the beach in front of our bungalows on Cat Ba
  • Cooking class
  • Bonfire on the beach
The interior of the cave at Hang Sung Sot
Hang Sung Sot cave

Pearl farm grids at the oyster farm
Oysters are suspended from grids at the pearl farm

Pearl farm
Pearl farm

Islands in Halong Bay
Islands in Halong Bay

Our guide explains the history of Cat Ba to us during our bike riding excusion
Bike riding on Cat Ba island

Trekking in Cat Ba
Trekking on Cat Ba

Fields and water buffalo on Cat Ba
Cat Ba Island

Fishing village in Halong Bay
One of the many fishing villages in Halong Bay

Another view of Halong Bay
Another view of Halong Bay

Kayaking at sunset
Kayaking at sunset at Three-Peach Islets

View from the summit of a ridge on Cat Ba
Reaching the summit of the ridge on Cat Ba

Cooking class
Cooking class

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