West Highland Way, Scotland - Day 2: Drymen to Rowadennan

Distance: Book says 22km but our fitness monitor says 26km

Leaving Drymen

The entire summer the weather across Europe had been sunny and dry...except in Scotland. Everytime we checked the Doppler radar, there was wet and rainy weather over Scotland. On the plus side, this meant that, while the rest of Europe was scorched and yellow, the Scottish landscape was green and lush. 

On the not so great side, we woke up to a torrential downpour on our second day on the West Highland Way. Sheets of rain slanted just slightly less than sideways rain (we'd get that kind of rain later on down the trail).  In hopes that the weather would let up a little, we decided to hunker down in cozy restaurant and have a big breakfast.

We headed to Skoosh because our guidebook mentioned they made great sandwiches which we planed to take with us to eat for lunch. When we're hiking, we normally hit grocery stores and make our own lunches, but with the weather being what it was, we thought it would be best to keep things as simple.

After inspecting the menu, I decided to go with a Coronation chicken sandwich. I'd never heard of a Coronation chicken sandwich before, so I Googled it and learned that it's a sandwich filled with pieces of chicken, mixed with mayonnaise and curry powder. The description didn't appeal to Baasje, so he ordered the other option on the menu:

Baasje: “I'll have the dry chicken sandwich, please."
Scottish server: “Just dry chicken?”
Baasje: “You don’t recommend it?”
Scottish server: “Well it’s just dry chicken, so it’ll be dry.”

And so we both ended up with Coronation chicken sandwiches.

For breakfast we could pick from either 5 or 7 choices. I went for 7 choices - fried eggs (2x) bacon, tomato, mushroom, sausage, potato scone, toast - and Baasje got 5 - scrambled egg, sausage (2x) potato scone, tomato. Delish!

On the trail

We got every kind of weather on the trail that day - pouring rain, bright sun, cold, hot. I was grateful I'd bit the bullet and splashed out a new Gore-tex raincoat before we left. 

We briefly hiked through the farmland surrounding Drymen  before entering a forest of beautiful big trees (and lots of signs of logging). After the forest, the trail split and we took the high route up Conic Hill to check out the vista of Loch Lommond (beautiful even though the views were partially obscured by fog and rain). It was definitely worth the climb!

Ate lunch in Balahama at the foot of Conic Hill - popular spot with tourists (lots of hiking groups).

After lunch the trail traced the shores of Loch Lommond. Beautiful

Arriving in Rowadennan

We had reservations that night at Rowardennan Lodge Youth Hostel (a converted fishing and hunting lodge). When we arrived at sunset we were famished and we were grateful that the hostel served a delish three course dinner. We both had the tomato basil soup (amazing!), Baasje had the chile con carne for his main and I had the chicken tikka. After dinner I soaked my feet in Loch Lommond before turning in early in anticipation of the next day’s hike (we’d been warned day 3 would be the the hardest stretch of the trail).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

See more photos of our second day on the West Highland Way in our album on Flickr

West Highland Way, Scotland - Day 1: Milngavie to Drymen

Arrival at the trailhead in Milngavie 

Distance: 19 km
Start: 10am
Arrival in Drymen: 3pm

Should we walk or take the train from Glasgow to the trailhead at Milngavie?

One of the (many) questions we asked ourselves when we were planning our West Highland Way trip was whether we should take the train from Glasgow to Milngavie - that's pronouned Mull-guy, by the way - or walk the ~12k instead. The main benefit of taking the train would of course be to save energy for the 154km hike ahead. On the other hand, after flying on a redeye from Montreal, a nice leisurely hike might be just the thing to keep us up throughout the day. This could lead to a good night's sleep starting at an appropriate hour - a strategy we usually follow to avoid jet lag.

And of course, we do love hiking.

We eventually decided to take advantage of the opportunity to spend a few hours exploring Glasgow before taking the short train ride to Milngavie. This made it possible for us to also have a leisurely evening in Milngavie. Plenty of time to pick up our WHW passport* (cost 10 pounts) and enjoy a yummy Sunday roast at the West Highland Way Beefeater, situated conveniently beside the inn we were staying in.

On the trail

As our guidebook suggested we had a easy day ahead of us, we figured 10am would be an adequate start time. We had a nice, big breakfast at the Beefeater, picked up snacks at the Tesco and subs at Subway just across from the trailhead (gluten-free buns!) and hit the trail.

The hike from Milngavie to Drymen was for, for the most part, a laid-back hike through pretty parks and rolling farmland - almost a stroll really. We passed lots of farms with sheep, goats, cows and ponies. As an added bonus we stopped at the Glencoyne Distillery, where we filled our water bottles distilled water from their outside tap and washed our lunch down with a few drams of their scotch. We both preferred the 12 year over the 18 year.

Arrival in Dryman

We arrived in Dryman around 3pm and went straight to the pub at the Clachann Inn (the oldest licensed pub in Scotland) where we were staying the night. We initially intended to check-in - and get my first stamp in my passport - before heading to our room to freshen up, but the bartender was so friendly we decided to pull up a chair at the bar and enjoy a few pints instead.

We had dinner in the restaurant at the Clachann that evening. I tried Cullen Skink for the first time (the first of many bowls I would enjoy on our journey). YUM!

 Our guidebook noted that the noise from the restaurant next door can make it difficult to sleep in the rooms located next door. We didn't find this to be a problem at all.

* Purchasing a WHW passport to collect stamps along the way is not necessary. I just like doing these kinds of things. It also provides an opportunity to contribute funds that go towards the maintenance of the trail.

 

See more photos of our first day on the West Highland Way in our album on Flickr

Tour de Mont Blanc, Day 9 - Hotel Col de la Forclaz to Gîte le Moulin

Distance: 13km
Time: 7 hours
Cost: 39 CHF (room and board at Gîte Moulin)

On the morning of our ninth day on the Tour de Mont Blanc, we climbed 700m after leaving Hotel de la Forclaz to arrive at Col de la Balme just before noon. The bad weather the forecast had predicted never arrived, at least not until we had safely reached the gîte. That said, we were glad to enjoy lovely 360 degree views of the surrounding mountains from Col de Balme and Col des Possettes.

Le Gîte Moulin, where we stayed the night, was pretty simple, but a good deal for the price, very comfy and the owner is a fabulous cook. This was the only place we stayed on the hike that cooked a specific vegan meal for Amy - salad and mushroom lasagna and I has lucky enough to enjoy it as well. YUM!
 

Tour de Mont Blanc, Day 8 - Relais d'Arpette to Hotel Col de la Forclaz

Distance: 12km, with a 1000m climb
Time: 9 hours
Cost: 63 CHF (room and board at Gîte d'alpage de La Peule)

We were told this is the hardest stretch on the Tour de Mont Blanc, and it did turn out to be pretty difficult. The gentle climb that started just after we left Relais d'Arpette became steeper and steeper until we were scrambling over loose boulders and up what felt like 45 degree banks to reach the Fenêtre d'Arpette.

Our climb was complicated by inconsistent weather conditions that in turn delivered rain, fog, wind and rare glimpses of blue sky to urge us onward. When we finally arrived at the fenêtre we were greeted by cold winds and rain. Though the view was surprisingly lovely, given the weather, we decided not to linger there long.

The 1000m descent took us 5 hours, most of it under unexpectedly sunny skies. We took our time to descend safely and stopped often to enjoy views of the impressive Trient Glacier.

We arrived at the Hotel Col de la Forclaz just before the thunderstorms started. The hotel is a sprawling maze of dorms and stairwells and seems to not have been renovated since the 70s. Though it's busier than I would prefer - it's located just up the hill from the bustling village of Trient - it seems quiet and cozy enough. And of course it feels good to be inside and out of the rain.

Tour de Mont Blanc, Day 7: Gîte d'alpage de La Peule to Relais d'Arpette

Distance: 24km
Time: 8 hours
Cost: 67 CHF (room and board at Relais d'Arpette)

After stopping short of a full leg the day before, we made up for the difference the next day. We completed the full leg for day 7 in our Tour de Mont Blanc guidebook and hiked an additional couple of kilometers to Relais d'Arpette.

Having enjoyed 6 straight days of glorious sunshine, we finally encountered our first bout of rain this day (which, happily enough, turned out to the the only rain we endured on the trail for the entire hike). It began just after we left La Peule and continued in a steady downpour until we reached la Fouly an hour and a half later. Thankfully the rain dried up just as we were hiking out of La Fouly and the sun came out. It remained fairly sunny for the rest of our extra-long hike - though it did begin raining again just after we checked into Relais d'Arpette.

As things go, it wasn't a bad day to deal with rain, most of the day we descended into the valley on wide paths, and there weren't any vistas to take in. We did pass many pretty, clear bubbling streams, shady forested stretches and picturesque Swiss Villages. We had a very nice stay at Relais d'Arpette where we were served a dinner of vegetable soup, beef stew, and dessert.

 

Tour de Mont Blanc, Day 6 - Rifugio Bonatti to Gîte d'alpage de La Peule

Distance: 13km
Time: 5.5 hours
Cost: 62 CHF (room and board at Gîte d'alpage de La Peule)

Our sixth day on the Tour de Mont Blanc was a pretty short day, though the 13km we covered included a bit of a grind of a climb from Val Ferret to Grand Col Ferret (1784m to 2537m) where we crossed into Switzerland.

 

We stayed the night at the Gîte d'alpage de La Peule. While it at first seemed comparatively small and rustic compared to the other refuges we'd encountered, it quickly found a place in my heart and became my second favourite refuge of the hike. It had the requisite lovely view, was quiet and comfortable and the dorms were roomy and airy (most of the dorms we stayed in were a bit on the stuffy side). As the gîte is located on a working dairy farm, the food, which featured their own milk and cheeses, was extra fresh and delicious. For dinner we had salad, croque madame and fruit salad and the breakfast they served in the morning was hands-down the best breakfast of the hike.

Tour de Mont Blanc, Day 5: Rifugio Bertone to Rifugio Bonatti (via Mont de la Saxe option)

Distance: ?
Time: 6 hours
Cost: 48 euros (room and board at Rifugio Bonatti)

On our fifth day on the Tour de Mont Blanc, we took one of the optional routes and gained an extra 500m of elevation so that we could take in an amazing panoramic view from Tête de la Tranche of the south wall of the Mont Blanc range from Col de la Seigne to the Grand Col Ferret.

We stayed the night at Rifugio Bonatti which had a spectacular and relatively close-up view of the mountains across the valley. They served us a humongous dinner of salad, soup with cheese and croutons, meatballs with peppers, mashed potatoes and chocolate tart.

Tour de Mont Blanc, Day 4: Rifugio Elisabetta to Rifugio Bertone

Distance: 22km
Time: 10 hours (including a leisurely lunch in Courmeyeur)
Cost: 60 euros (room and board at Refuge de Nant Borrant)

The highlight of our fourth day on the Tour de Mont Blanc was the morning hike across Val Veni, which was stunning beautiful in the morning light. A great start to a fairly easy day, though we did tackle 2 climbs. The first was a 400m  climb up from Val Veni to Mont Favre Spur which, though short, was pretty steep. The second was from the resort town of Courmeyeur up to the lovely Rifugio Bertone, my favourite refuge of the all the refuges we stayed at on the TMB.

The climb up to Bertone was very steep, but the well worth it. The views from the patio of the rifugio were out of this world. We also enjoyed having reliable wifi access for the first time on the hike and a topped off the evening with a terrific dinner of pasta, polenta, sausage, ratatouille and creme anglaise.

Tour de Mont Blanc, Day 3: Refuge des Mottets to Rifugio Elisabetta

Distance: 9.5
Time: 4 hours
Cost: 55 euros (room and board at Rifugio Elisabetta)

Our third day on the Tour de Mont Blanc started with a 700m climb up from Des Mottets to Col de la Seigne where we crossed into Italy.  It was a bit of a grind, but it was over soon enough. As it was still early in the day, we enjoyed a nice long break at Col de la Seigne, and took a short detour on our descent into Val Veni to view the neighbouring valley.

We arrived at Rifugio Elisabetta early in the day with enough time to do a bit of laundry and have a relaxing afternoon.  We treated ourselves to a pasta and beer lunch - sausage and tagliatelle for me and gnocchi for Amy. It was a big lunch, but we still managed to make room for dinner that evening. Mmmmm, pasta!