Wednesday, June 27, 2012

The Other London, Part 2: Roll up, roll up for the Mystery Tour

John had estimated the distance from Amsterdam to the Roskilde Festival in Denmark to be about 800km. A distance he felt would be coverable within a 3 day time span which, in my uninitiated estimation, seemed overly generous. Having only been in Europe for a few days, I was still in full-fledged, ignorant tourist mode, and gauging the undertaking by North American standards,  I thought it more reasonable to expect the journey would take us a couple of days. One day if we were lucky.

I quickly realized the difference between hitching rides in North America and hitching rides in Europe was that hitching rides in Europe was a bit of a dog-and-pony-show/milk-run where you had to be prepared to stop at every village - and I do mean every village - along the way between point A and point B. To be fair, things were the same in North America, but with major epicenters spread out a reasonable distance, at least you'd feel like you're getting somewhere with each ride. In Europe, most folks seemed only to be traveling to the next village which, if you were lucky, might be a good 10km away. Sigh.

Likewise, it took us one full day - over 10 hours on the road - to get from Amsterdam to Arnhem, Holland, a paltry 100km away.  Our tedious progress encompassed 8 rides including: a business man who drove us to the outskirts of Amsterdam where his car promptly overheated, a minibus of high school kids on a band trip, a farmer who let us ride in the back of her produce van, and other assorted fun.


Here's some useful European hitching how-to from back in the day, in case you're interested:

  1. Make sure you have a big pad of paper with you and a thick black marker so you can display the name of the next village to passing vehicles. It's inadvisable to write down the name of your final destination as anything further than 20km away will likely overwhelm your audience if they bother to look.

  2. It is, or was, illegal to hitch on the open highway in most countries in Europe. The acceptable spot to wait for rides is at the top of an on ramp. Where major highways intersect, this of course means that when you are dropped off at an off ramp, you will need to cross the intersecting highway on foot to get to the next on ramp. A side note here, once you've made it half way across the highway, you'll likely find those concrete barriers are actually much higher than you might expect. Also, the smooth sides make them very difficult to climb over with a 30 lb backpack on your back. Good luck!

  3. As hitchhiking partners go, you'll have an easier time finding rides if you travel with a girl. Lone males or two males will receive less offers. And as far as numbers go, the maximum size of your travelling party should be limited to two.

  4. It is expected that you will be open to engaging in idle chitchat throughout the duration of your ride. Remember, your driver is a person who has invited a couple of strangers to share their confined space for a period of time. They are overtly social creatures and there are no 'free rides' to be had. Even the fact that you don't speak a common language won't get you off the hook. You can expect to answer questions like 'Where are you going?", "What do you think about [insert current country/closet village]?" and "What is [insert name of your home country] like?" over and over and over again. And then some.


Our last ride of the day was kind enough to drive us all the way to the nearest hostel in Arnhem which happened to be a Christian youth hostel. In my experience these establishments are dependably very clean, very efficiently run and, most notably, very not fun. Well, we really only needed a place to shower and crash before hitting the road early the next day. The hostel staff were at least open-minded enough to allow us to stay in the co-ed dorm though we were not a married couple. We were given bunks beside an elderly grandma and grandpa (or should I say, oma and opa) -like German couple who folded their socks neatly on top of the sandals at the foot of their beds.

As we were crawling into our bunks at the early hour of 10, it was already past 'lights out' time. The dorm was in semi-darkness and filled with the sounds of snoring travellers. John, who had maintained a respectable we-hardly-know-each-other distance throughout the day, stepped up to the upper bunk where I was already snuggled into my sleeping bag to whisper good night. His gorgeous eyes shimmered silver in the dim light. And he kissed me. Swoon. I mean, ew (well, not really).




A few friends have asked me to write about how I came to use the name, theotherlondon, so here it is: a collection of stories from June 1993 to October 1994 that include my experiences working in Switzerland and the UK; my engagement to a German blacksmith in Paris; our road trip across North America in a '67 Volvo with an Australian footballer, and oh yes, my introduction to something 'new' called the Internet. You can find the first post here.

Sunday, June 24, 2012

The Other London

A few friends have asked me to write about how I came to use the name, theotherlondon, so here it is: a collection of stories from June 1993 to October 1994 that include my experiences working in Switzerland and the UK; my engagement to a German blacksmith in Paris; our road trip across North America in a '67 Volvo with an Australian footballer, and oh yes, my introduction to something 'new' called the Internet.

Part 1: She's got a ticket to ride

On June 24, 1993, I flew to Amsterdam on a one day ticket with vague ideas that I hoped to spend the summer, or at least a month or so of it visiting Italy, Spain, Greece and if my money lasted, Egypt or Israel. You'll eventually notice that I visited none of those places, and ended up in a  bunch of countries I never dreamed I would ever set foot in. Funny how those things can happen when you don't have a set plan.

I enjoy traveling alone. It can be lonely and maybe a bit precarious at times - like when you pull into a train station in a seedy part of town at 3am in the morning with no idea where you're going to stay - but it also has its benefits. The perk I appreciate the most is that you get invited on all sorts of adventures with groups of people who are looking for some fresh company but can only make room for one. And most groups can usually make room for one.

I'd like to mention that I in no way intend to suggest that it's a good idea for young girls to go traveling alone to any part of the world. I've been lucky to have never ended up in any truly dangerous situations, but I've heard reports of others who have. Frankly, amongst the other young girls I crossed paths with who were also traveling alone, I never encountered any of these unfortunate damsels. But who's to say.

My first few days in Amsterdam I got invited to join in on a few promising outings:

Option 1
A couple invited me along to Turkey, a country they had recently returned from. They had traveled back to Amsterdam to pick up belongings they had left behind and where excited to get back to what they described as the most beautiful landscapes they had ever seen.

Option 2
I met a fun and friendly group of students from Bath who were coming to the end of a three-week summer road trip on the continent asked if I might be interested in catching a ride with them to visit their home turf where they promised bustling student nightlife and interesting architecture.

Option 3
Most temptingly some fellow Canadians who had rented a VDub bus for the summer and were heading to Spain asked if I might like to join them. Well, Spain was on my 'itinerary'...

Option 4
On my second morning in the hostel - Bob's Youth Hostel, which had been highly recommended by a number of friends and didn't disappoint - I was <mumble> playing guitar in the hostel cafeteria </mumble> when a gorgeous Norwegian with amazing blue eyes asked if I might like to go see Neil Young in concert. I happened to be playing a Neil Young song at the time.

[caption id="attachment_197" align="alignnone" width="300"]Journal Screenshot from theotherlondon blog circa 1993[/caption]

"But isn't Neil Young  touring North America?" I asked/responded wishing I'd showered before heading down to grab breakfast, or at least brushed my hair. "I have some friends who were just caught one of his shows back home."

"Maybe he was there," the Norwegian answered in that slightly American sounding accent I discovered most young Scandinavians have when they speak English. I later learned that many of the American films and televisions shows they have access to aren't dubbed into their native tongue but are shown in their original format, thus their dependably excellent English.

"He's here now," the Norwegian continued. "He's playing at a music festival in Denmark in three days. If you'd like to see him, you can come with me. If you'd like." He flashed a drop dead gorgeous smile.

"How are you getting there?"

"I was planning to hitchhike. It shouldn't take any longer than 2 or maybe 3 days to get there."

Hitching through Europe to a music festival? It seemed a no-brainer that this was the way to go. Oh, did I mention he had amazing blue eyes?