Distance: 12km, with a 1000m climb
Time: 9 hours
Cost: 63 CHF (room and board at Gîte d'alpage de La Peule)
We were told this is the hardest stretch on the Tour de Mont Blanc, and it did turn out to be pretty difficult. The gentle climb that started just after we left Relais d'Arpette became steeper and steeper until we were scrambling over loose boulders and up what felt like 45 degree banks to reach the Fenêtre d'Arpette.
Our climb was complicated by inconsistent weather conditions that in turn delivered rain, fog, wind and rare glimpses of blue sky to urge us onward. When we finally arrived at the fenêtre we were greeted by cold winds and rain. Though the view was surprisingly lovely, given the weather, we decided not to linger there long.
The 1000m descent took us 5 hours, most of it under unexpectedly sunny skies. We took our time to descend safely and stopped often to enjoy views of the impressive Trient Glacier.
We arrived at the Hotel Col de la Forclaz just before the thunderstorms started. The hotel is a sprawling maze of dorms and stairwells and seems to not have been renovated since the 70s. Though it's busier than I would prefer - it's located just up the hill from the bustling village of Trient - it seems quiet and cozy enough. And of course it feels good to be inside and out of the rain.
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