Coast-to-Coast Trans-Canada Road Trip, Victoria to St John's: Highlights and Top Picks

 
It's been almost 2 months now since we bid goodbye to friends and familiar surroundings in Victoria, BC on Canada's west coast. Over 7,500km, a chipped windshield and a new set of shocks later here we are in Canada's easternmost province, Newfoundland. At last we're about to enter the final leg of our cross-country journey which we expect will come to a close next week in St John's. Woo! And also, whew!

Here's a few of the highlights from our trip:

New favourite Canadian hiking trails…
Sentinel Pass, Moraine Lake, Alberta
Balu Pass, Glacier National Park, British Columbia
See photos in my Rocky Mountains flickr set

Most wildlife sightings…
Grasslands National Park, Saskatchewan (wild bison, red fox, coyote, prairie dogs, antelope, elk, burrowing owl, etc., etc.)

Best side trip for photo ops…
Icefields Parkway, Banff and Jasper National Parks, Alberta
See photos in my Rocky Mountains flickr set

Friendliest people we encountered…
Newfoundland…and Saskatchewan
Of course everyone knows about the legendary friendliness of Newfoundlanders, but the amazing hospitality of the people we encountered in Saskatchewan was somewhat of a surprise. It felt like every second person we crossed paths with in the province tried to go out of their way to do something nice for us, just because.

Best museum experience…
Art Spiegelman Exhibit, Vancouver Art Gallery, British Columbia
Royal Tyrrell Musem, Drumheller, Alberta

Best sandwich…
Montreal smoked meat sandwich at Swartz's Deli, Montreal, Quebec

Best breakfast…
Brock's fried tomatoes and bacon at the Merrifield cottage on the Bruce Peninsula, Ontario

Beyond the hiking experiences and sightseeing excursions, the most memorable moments of our trip have been spent catching up with familiar folks across the country - in most cases, dear friends and family we haven't seen for years.

We hadn't originally planned to begin our trip this way - somehow it seemed like cheating to begin an around the world trip with two months of travel in our home country - but I'm so glad we did! As one of the friends we caught up with put it, it's like the take-off part of the journey and Canada is the runway - a runway lined with our wonderful, supportive friends and family.

Our eternal gratitude to those of you who've shared a meal with us, packed us lunches and snacks for the road, taken us on a tour of your town, passed on helpful travel tips, provided us with a place to lay our heads for the night and so much more. We've been so humbled and honoured by your willingness to share our journey with us. Thank you, thank you for helping to make it happen!

 

 

 

 

 

 

As the Trans-Canada leg of our trip draws to a close we're starting to make final arrangements for the next segment which will begin just a little over a week from now when we fly to Iceland, land of glaciers and volcanoes. Stay tuned!

Hey Friends! Join us on our journey as we travel the world!

 

It's been almost two months since we left the west coast to head out on our around-the-world journey. Wow, time flies! Near the start of our trip, my friend Diane made a very cool suggestion: that I should come up with a way to document our travels online. Of course, I'd already been keeping a record of our travels in a bit of a loosely organized way - through my blog posts and photo galleries. The idea of going one step further and coming up with a continuing theme to explore sounded like a fun idea.

It's taken me a few weeks to figure it out, but I've finally come up with a blog idea that I hope will work for me. I believe it'll lend some structure to these willy-nilly blog posts I've been writing, AND bring friends closer to mind as we head out into the big wide-world.

I'm hoping you, my good friends and family, might take a few minutes out of your day to send me something to reflect upon for one day of this trip we're on. I'd like for it to be something that has particular meaning in our relationship - an activity we both enjoy, a song we like, a place that's significant to both of us, the topic of a discussion we've had, etc. Please send your ideas by Facebook message (if we're connected on Facebook), a direct message on Twitter or in the comments below. At the end of each day, I'll include my reflections in a blog post. I'm counting on you guys for inspiration!

As per Diane's suggestion, if this all sounds too vague and open-ended you could also just send me your favourite song.

Looking forward to reading your submissions! Knowing how fabulous you all are, I expect I'll have some fantastic things to ponder over the coming months!

Coast to Coast Trans-Canada Road Trip, Day 53: Hidden Gems in Southern New Brunswick

What's the best way from Fredericton to Quispamsis, New Brunswick? Bet you're dying to know! Ask Google Maps and you'll be provided with a suggested route that cuts a straight-as-the-crow-flies path along Highway 7 between the two cities. Ask a local - or this newly converted fan of New Brunswick's picturesque back roads - and you might receive a very different recommendation.

If you're traveling anywhere in and around southern New Brunswick, the recommendation you'll most likely receive from those in the know is to take advantage of one or more of the eight ferry crossings that comprise the local cable ferry system. Availing yourself of one of these convenient jaunts across the river will not only take you down some of the prettiest country roads in the Maritimes, but might also shave a significant amount of time off your journey. And did I mention they're FREE?

Our route took us west from Fredericton to Gagetown where we caught the ferry to Jemseg. We then continued overland to Long Point where we took the Belleisle Bay Ferry to Kars. One last scenic drive through picturesque rolling countryside, replete with winsome waterfront cottages and even the occasional winery (yes, New Brunswick has wineries, who knew?), took us to Kingston where we caught the ferry to Quispamsis.  Here are some pics from our journey:

Back roads of southern New Brunswick

View of the cable at the Long Point ferry terminal

Driving onto the Belleisle Bay cable ferry

If you're interested, you can find out more about the New Brunswick cable ferry system here.

Coast to Coast Trans-Canada Road Trip, Day 20: On the Farm in Manitoba

"When you reach Winnipeg, take the north perimeter highway to Highway 7. When the road ends you'll see a bar. I'll meet you there."

Those were the exact instructions we received from our good friend Michael when we caught up with him by phone after leaving Manitoba's scenic Riding Mountain National Park. We'd been trying to get a hold of him for over month and now just a few hundred kilometres shy of driving past his place all together we'd finally managed to connect with him. In the eleventh hour so to speak. Of course, that was no problem at all.

"Come to Arborg for the day, or for two days! Better yet, come for the week!" Mike insisted when we mentioned we were hoping to see him while we were in his neck of the woods.

The licence plate motto for Manitoba, one of Canada's three prairie provinces, is "Friendly Manitoba". I suppose it's no coincidence that pretty much the friendliest guy we've ever met is from Manitoba. We stayed on Mike's family farm - located outside town in Poplar Field, MB for three fun filled days and two blissfully restful nights.

During those three days we feasted on a robust diet of local meats, baked goods and eggs purchased from local Hutterites, vegetables grown in their own garden and homemade pickles, jams and yes, moonshine. I learned to drive a quad, Baasje went for a ride in Mike's handmade canoe and we spent one afternoon at the impressive cabin Mike and his brother in-law had recently built on a wooded section of their property. The cabin was decorated with trophies of past hunting expeditions, antlers, pelts, and even a bear skin.

For my two cents, Manitoba certainly lives up to it's motto, and in a uniquely Canadian way! We had a blast and I can't wait to go back!

Coast to Coast Trans-Canada Road Trip, Day 16: Grasslands National Park, Southern Saskatchewan Makes Our A-list

Here's a question for you: why set out on a hike when you can view all 10km of the trail from the trailhead? It's the question that left us wondering if it would be worthwhile visiting Grasslands National Park, Canada's only Prairie National Park, at all. 

You don't have to travel the remote roads of southern Saskatchewan to get an idea of what the terrain will look like at Grasslands - perhaps not surprisingly one of the least visited national parks in the system. Its grassy and flat. What more could there be to it? 

Having overcome our initial reservations to take the time to pay it a visit, I'm very pleased to report there's much more to Grasslands than you might expect. This unassuming park is in fact a unique jewel in the crown - an undiscovered gem, so to speak - of Canada's most memorable national parks.

So, to get back to the question at hand. Why set out on a hike when you can view all 10km of the trail from the trailhead? The answer is in the endless small details and infinite view points you'll encounter along the way. Grasslands is a wanderer's park, best suited for those who prefer the journey itself over the accomplishment of reaching that milestone destination. If you take the time, you'll see that at every one of the infinite view points to be seen from its hiking trails is a vast and stunningly beautiful landscape.

We hiked two of the park's trails and I really wish we had time for more. We walked 7km of the trails at 70 Mile Butte close to sunset (as suggested in the park brochure). We also took in the shorter Two Trees trail at the park's western access point. Both trails were spectacular. 

I hope to post some pics during our upcoming stop in Regina but to do the park justice you really must see it for yourself. I promise you won't be disappointed.

Coast to Coast Trans-Canada Road Trip, Day 15: Lost in Rural Saskatchewan

We stopped in Consul, Saskatchewan to get gas on our way to Grasslands National Park. 

"Are you lost?" was the first thing the gas station attendant asked us as we stepped out of the car.

We explained that we'd been directed to Consul by the Cypress Hills park staff whose own gas pumps were out of order due to electricity problems. Though we'd

fairly recently tanked up, we didn't have quite enough fuel to make it to Grasslands National Park (our destination) and then onto the next nearest town with a gas station, Mankota. Welcome to rural Saskatchewan.

In some ways, Saskatchewan seems to be the most truly Canadian province we've travelled through so far. Draped with vast empty spaces, tidy and massive farm fields stretching out to the horizon and beyond, super friendly people with kind smiles. Not as showy and in-your-face as beautiful British Columbia. Humble and unassuming compared to prosperous Alberta. Saskatchewan has a quiet beauty all it's own.

Tonight, if we're lucky, we'll maybe see a herd of wild buffalo in Grasslands National Park. Does it get anymore Canadian than that? Outside of a hockey arena, that is.

Update: We did see bison in Grasslands National Park! Though park staff explained that most of the herd are currently located in a remote area of the park, we came across numerous small groups of bison near the roadway throughout the park. We also saw lots of prairie dogs, coyotes, two red fox, rabbits, hawks, raptors, a burrowing owl, antelope and mule deer. The best wildlife viewing we've ever experienced in a natural setting. Magic!

Coast to Coast Trans-Canada Road Trip, Day 14: Goodbye,Dinosaurs/Hello, Rainbows (and a little bit of catch up)

I've been terribly remiss at keeping up to date with these blog posts from the road so I'm trying a new approach - blogging from my sleeping bag. We'll see how this goes.

Anyhoo, when last I wrote it was day 5 of our journey and we were thoroughly enjoying hiking the scenic alpine trails in Glacier National Park I've since learned the hikes in Glacier, while every bit as fabulous as I initially reported, pale in comparison to the even more fabulous hikes in Lake Louise, Banff and Jasper (days 6 to 9 of our trip). I posted galleries on Flickr if you'd like to see some pics (see link below).

I should also mention that we had the pleasure of sharing our campsite in Lake Louise with a super cool young family from Washington that we ran into at the campsite registration hut who were about to be turned away due to lack of space at the campground. We couldn't have that! A shout to our new friends, Shaun and April and their two awesome and adorable kids!

Days 10 to 13 we took a bit of a departure from the usual outdoorsy theme of our journey to experience the cowboy charms of the 2013 Calgary Stampede, a.k.a. "The Greatest Outdoor Show on Earth". Though we only had time to enjoy 3 of the 10 days of the city-wide extravaganza, we packed in most of the highlights including a pancake breakfast, watching one of the afternoon rodeos, attending a ceremonial event at the Indian Village and checking out the exhibits at the Stampede grounds. A great big thank you to our fantastic host, Baasje's little cousin Matty (who sometime in the past few years went from being a gawky teen to a hotshot corporate lawyer). Thanks for letting us stay in your swanky, new downtown pad, Matty!

The last couple of days we're been exploring the museums and sites that feature Alberta's other big tourist draw, dinosaur remains! In my humble opinion, the Royal Tyrrell Museum in Drumheller was one of the best museum exhibits I've ever experienced. I mean, everybody knows the big dinosaur skeleton is the best part of the museum tour and this museum is chock-a-block full of 'em! Gobsmacked, I tell you!

We also made a stop at Dinosaur Provincial Park to snap a few pics of the scenic Alberta Badlands landscape, do a few of the short hikes, all the while doing our best to dodge the mosquitos.

And that pretty much takes us up to where we are today, super clean and friendly Cypress Hills Interprovincial Park in southwestern Saskatchewan. When it comes to amenities, this park has it all - mini-golf, horseback riding, brand new showers, even a pizzeria!

Check out my Flickr galleries if you'd like to see pics of our Banff, Jasper and Lake Louise hikes. I'm also hoping to get a blog post up about the Plains of Six Glaciers and Sentinel Pass hikes we did near Lake Louise. Definite contenders for my favourite Canadian Day hike of all time!

Coast to Coast Trans-Canada Road Trip, Days 5 & 6: Glacier National Park, British Columbia

Balu Pass Trail

I LOVE Glacier National Park. I believe I could easily spend a week, perhaps two, exploring it's many fine hiking trails. Who knew? Certainly not I, having obviously been unfairly distracted by the lure of it's more iconic neighbours to the east, Banff, Jasper, Yoho and Kootenay.

We had planned on staying one night in Glacier and decided to pony up for two. This gave us enough time to hike two of the park's most scenic trails, as recommended by the helpful Parks Canada staff, Balu Pass and the Asulkan Valley.

Balu Pass Trail
Estimated time (return): 4 hours
Distance (return): 12.8km
Elevation gain: 788m
Difficulty: Moderate
Hike details for both hikes taken from the Glacier National Parks trail brochure.

The trailhead for Balu Pass is conveniently located behind the visitors centre at Rogers Pass. It starts with a steep climb through a fairly unremarkable (sorry, but I must call a spade a spade) stand of hemlocks. Not to worry though! In a reasonably short amount of time the trail opens up into alpine meadows with gorgeous views stretching across the valley to Balu Pass. I know all valleys and alpine meadows make for pretty pictures, but these are particularly scenic AND the layout of the trail coupled with uncharacteristically well-aligned valley walls allow for unobstructed views for the remaining length of the hike. Charge your camera batteries before you go and pack a big lunch! This trail requires some degree of endurance but you'll be well rewarded for your efforts.

Asulkan Valley Trail
Estimated time (return): 6 hours
Distance (return): 13.8km
Elevation gain: 869m
Difficulty: Moderate

Here is the Canadian alpine hiking experience of your picture-postcard-perfect dreams. I mean it! Close your eyes and imagine the required elements of the quintessential west coast alpine hike and this trail has them in spades. Valley views, a rushing icy creek, glaciers, wildlife, even an alpine hut and, oh yes, a steep grind or two (or three or four) to get the blood pumping. As an added bonus, the hike begins with a walk through the ruins of the old Glacier House Hotel, complete with plaques detailing the establishment's colourful history. What more could one ask for in a trail?

Note: Snow cover made the last sections of both these hikes difficult and slow-going. What's more, though we saw no bears on either of these trails, we have heard that bear activity can be of heightened concern some years. Check trail conditions with Parks Canada staff at Rogers Pass before heading out. Happy hiking!

Coast to Coast Trans-Canada Road Trip, Day 3: Vancouver to Sicamous, BC

Aside from brunch at  Havana and a quick stop at the Super Saver to pick up groceries, today was mainly a day for highway travel. Having spent the first 3 days of our journey lollygagging in the vicinity of the coast the time was more than ripe for getting a sizable chunk of road between us and the Pacific Ocean. We drove over 500km east of Vancouver past many scenic vistas along the Trans-Canada and Coquihalla Highways to Yard Creek - a fittingly pedestrian name for a park who's most winning attribute, as noted in it's own brochure, is the reliable availability of campsites.

Now, before you get the urge to scold me for slagging a provincial park (I didn't write that brochure, you know) I should add the park has suited our purposes very well. We've found our lovely wooded campsite to be amply sized and offering an adequate degree of privacy. It's also reasonably-priced (campsites are $20/night with a maximum occupancy of 4 persons, bundles of campfire wood are $5). It may not have much to offer in the way of hiking trails, but that's easily overlooked with the promise of Revelstoke and Glacier National Park located just down the highway. We hope to arrive at Revelstoke tomorrow morning. If you've been to these parks and have any suggestions for things we should do or hikes we should check out, we'd love to hear them!

And speaking of tomorrow morning, it's time for this sleepy traveller to hit the proverbial hay (unroll my Thermarest and crawl into my sleeping bag). G'night!

Farewell, Vancouver Island: 5 Years & 10 Favourite Outdoor Adventures

Less than a week until we hit the road! I'm beginning to suspect one month may not be enough time to effectively plan and make arrangements for an around the world journey...but check-in with me in a day or two and we'll see where things are at. Fingers crossed!

Keeping focused on the most important details at hand, we've been taking time as of late to bid a fond farewell (it's not goodbye) to friends and pay a visit to some of our favourite places on Vancouver Island. Of course, some of those places are too far afield to get to before we leave on Friday, so I'll have to make do with encouraging others to visit those places in our stead.

My 10 Favourite Outdoor Adventures on Vancouver Island

1. The North Coast Trail/Cape Scott Trail

A shoo-in for the number one spot on my list is our 6-day, 72km hike on the North Coast/Cape Scott Trails. When we did the trip in 2009, the North Coast Trail - a rugged and beautiful traverse of beaches and forest at the north end of Vancouver Island - had been in existence for less than a year and was somewhat of an undiscovered gem. The lack of trail traffic we encountered heightened that soul-satisfying sense of exploration and adventure - every long distance hiker's raison d'être. What more could you ask for?

2. Summiting Mount Albert Edward, Strathcona Provincial Park

The trail to the summit of Mount Albert Edward - one of Vancouver Island's 5 highest peaks - starts at Paradise Meadows and heads across the Forbidden Plateau in Strathcona Provincial Park. We set aside 3 full days to enjoy the 30km trail at a relatively laid-back pace but we did notice others doing the trip as an overnighter or even as a day hike. The views from this trail are breathtaking - both literally and figuratively - but while it's steep in spots, this isn't a technically difficult summit. Good times for the whole family!

3. Kayaking the Broken Group Islands, Pacific Rim National Park

Last year we spent 6 glorious days kayaking the Broken Group Islands - a collection of small islands and islets in Pacific Rim National Park. The sunsets were beautiful and the paddling was mostly calm (though things did get a bit choppy on the longer crossings). We also saw lots of wildlife, including a humpback whale that breached less than twenty metres ahead of us in the open water off Reeks Island.

Rounding Out My Top 10…

4. Juan de Fuca Marine Trail
5. Caving at Horne Lake Caves
6. Kayaking in the Gulf Islands
7. Tidal Pools at Botanical Beach
8. Winter Camping on the Forbidden Plateau
9. Coastal Trail, East Sooke Park
10. Cathedral Grove

What About the West Coast Trail?

Those familiar with hiking trails on Vancouver Island may notice one glaring omission from this list. Despite hiking just about every other long and short distance trail on the Island, I've managed to overlook doing the most famous hike in the region, and probably the country - the West Coast Trail in Pacific Rim National Park. I have a history of this sort of ridiculousness (during my only visit to France, I spent 5 days in Paris and didn't go see the Eiffel Tower). I don't know why I do these sorts of things, but it does provide me with a handy excuse to return in the future. For now, let's just say had I done the West Coast Trail I expect it would have appeared somewhere amongst the top 5 entries on this list.

More to Come...

That sums up my Vancouver Island top 10…for now. Though we'll soon be leaving the west coast, I very much hope to return one day. If you have any suggestions for trips I should add to my to-do list, I'd love to hear them!

Check out more posts about our hikes on Vancouver Island.

Around the World, At Last!

It seems like B and I have been talking about doing a trip around the world forever. It's a fun conversation to have - faraway places to visit, friends and family in other countries to reconnect with, events and festivals to attend…one day. Yes, we've had lots of discussions about what we're going to do on our epic journey around the world, but not much talk of how we're going to do it.

That all changed a few short weeks ago and suddenly we're scrambling to purchase tickets and travel insurance, book doctors appointments, get our immunizations up-to-date, clear out our apartment, figure out what we're going to do with our belongings and a thousand other things that need to be crossed off the list before we hit the road at the end of this month. It's happening now, baby!

With advice from friends who've done similar trips and help from our handy Rough Guide, we're sketching out a loose itinerary that we hope will get us around the world on our modest budget within the next 6-8 months. From my experience the last time I undertook a long journey, I know it's very possible we'll throw this itinerary out the window once the trip is underway but, for the moment, it's lending some semblance of structure to the endless possibilities at hand.

Speaking of endless possibilities, if you have any recommendations for places we should visit we'd love to hear them! All suggestions would be most welcome though we're especially interested in hearing about must-do hikes and outdoor adventures.  What favourite spots have you visited around the globe?

Wordless Wednesday: Tide Pools at Botanical Beach

New to Me: Other Lives, Mind the Gap [EP]

I finally got around to downloading Other Lives' latest offering, their four song EP titled, Mind the Gap, last week. The EP includes three new songs, "Take Us Alive", "Dead Can" and "Dust Bowl" and a version of "Tamer Animals" remixed by Atoms for Peace (Thom Yorke/Flea/Nigel Godrich), all for the cost of a coffee and doughnut.

Other Lives have been one of my favourite bands since I first heard their debut self-titled album, released in 2009, and this EP just helps drive that point home. In particular, the opener, "Take Us Alive", has all the winning ingredients that make their songs so endearing and unique - rich orchestration, dramatic percussion, lots of layers.

It's a mystery why I've waited so long to purchase Mind the Gap - my only guess is that I've been so wrapped up in Other Lives' last full length release, Tamer Animals, that I simply didn't expect there could be more. I'm glad the band has taken the time to put out a little something in advance of their next album, it's been a great addition to my collection and is already in heavy rotation on my playlists.

P.S. I've only had the chance to catch Other Lives in concert once and they sounded just as amazing live as they do on their recorded albums. I'd highly recommend taking in one of their live shows, if you ever get the chance.

Wordless Wednesday: My favourite park bench

SXSW 2013: Day 2

Just wanted to share a couple of pics that I snapped on day 2 at SXSW. Though they might seem somewhat disparate, I think they both reflect the atmosphere that makes SX a second-to-none festival.

I started off the day with Tim Berners-Lee's presentation on Open Web. I was surprised by the number of "Who is Tim Berners-Lee?" inquiries I heard in the lineup going into the presentation. For those who don't know, Berners-Lee is credited with being the inventor of the World Wide Web. You can find my live tweets from his session below. The man talks a mile a minute and every sentence was packed with 2-3 points that I might consider to be the most profound thing I've ever heard.

At the end of the day I came across this fun little scene on Sixth near the conference center (pic below). The sun was setting, the day sessions were winding down, and the parties were just getting started. These dancers and their zombie marching band were wandering up and down the streets getting everyone riled up for the fun night ahead.

SXSW 2013, Day 1

I spent most of the day settling in and getting oriented but I managed to fit in 3 sessions: Bre Pettis (of MakerBot) unveiled his company's new product, the Digitizer, during his opening remarks of the festival; Poynter's presentation on their recent study of news-reading habits of tablet users included some useful insights; and I picked up lots of helpful tips in the Google and Bing session on improving search ranking.

SXSWi 2013 is off to a great start. Though the festival gets bigger every year, the organizers seem to do a bang-up job of making sure things run more smoothly than they did the last time around.

SXSWi 2013 got off to a great start, despite the uncooperative weather.

Wordless Wednesday: Hiking the Arbutus Ridge Trail

Farewell to My Old Backpack

Me (on the left) and my backpack
with friends in Switzerland

I purchased my old backpack with Christmas money I received the year I flew to Europe on a one way ticket with a loose plan to maybe return to Canada in time to go to university in the fall (that was the story I told my parents, anyway).

Money was tight and I had a lot of gear to purchase, so I went for a cheap and cheerful 45L MEC backpack that set me back $42, plus shipping and handling. I entrusted all of my worldly possessions to that backpack. It held everything I needed for a motorcycle trip to the North Cape in Norway, a 3-day hitchhiking journey across Holland, Germany and Denmark, and a hike in the Alps, to name a few of the adventures we enjoyed together.

When I finally made my way back home a year-and-a-half later, I was pleased to find that my trusty backpack had not only held up well, but that it seemed to be ready for more.

Here's a selection of trips I've taken with my backpack since I returned from Europe:

1. Ontario to BC road trip and camping (via the I90)


2. Backpacking in Guatemala and the Yucatan


3. Bruce Peninsula National Park


4. Kouchibouguac National Park/Fundy National Park


5. Canoe trip, Lake Superior Provincial Park/Pukaskwa National Park


6. 46 km in Gros Morne National Park


7. 52 km, Copacabana to Yampupata/Isla Del Sol, Bolivia


8. 46 km on the Juan de Fuca


9. 72 km on the North Coast Trail


10. Summiting Mount Albert Edward, Strathcona Provincial Park

Me and my backpack on the North Coast Trail, Vancouver Island
(with the best looking guy on the Island)

Call me sentimental, but after 20 years of traveling with the same backpack it didn't seem right to retire that old backpack without acknowledging that it was probably the best $42 I've ever spent. This past Christmas I asked Santa for a brand new backpack--the same make and model as it's predecessor, which this year cost $79 (on sale). Looking forward to all the places we'll go to together!

Wordless Wednesday: Arbutus Trail

I Heart Winter Camping

Trip details: One night on the Forbidden Plateau

Day 1: Paradise Meadows trailhead to Lake Helen McKenzie
Day 2: Helen McKenzie to the ranger cabin near Hairtrigger Lake and return to trailhead

Location: Strathcona Provincial Park, Vancouver Island, BC

A few of the things I packed for our
winter overnighter on the Forbidden Plateau

Last weekend we spent a night winter camping on the Forbidden Plateau in Strathcona Provincial Park. When I told my sister about our experience she feigned interest for a few minutes, politely inquiring after a few small details, before finally asking the question that was obviously foremost in her mind, "You don't actually enjoy doing that stuff do you?"

Well, yes, I do enjoy winter camping.

I enjoy it because every winter camping trip I've been on has been a great learning experience. I always pick up a few tips that I can file away for future camping excursions,  cold or fair-weather. I enjoy it because the trails are quiet and we usually have the campground all to ourselves. I enjoy it because at the end of even short, overnight trips I feel like I've accomplished something epic and significant.

Winter camping isn't for everyone, and it's not without its hardships and challenges, but it's definitely one of the most rewarding outdoor experiences there are to be had. If you live on Vancouver Island, or happen to be in the neighbourhood, and are a confident and experienced camper, I'd highly recommend an overnight trip out on the Forbidden Plateau. You won't be disappointed!

View from the Paradise Meadows trailhead

More information about winter camping:

• Outdoor Action Guide to Winter Camping, Rick Curtis


• Winter Camping in Canada, Discover Canadian Outdoors


• Winter Camping, ClubTread, Stephen Sharp

Wordless Wednesday: Squally Reach in Gowlland Tod

Concert Review: Patrick Watson at Alix Goolden Hall - 14/11/12

Before attending last night's Patrick Watson concert at Alix Goolden Hall, I considered their latest release, Adventures in Your Own Backyard to be a front-runner for my favourite album of 2012. Last night's show sealed the deal and, judging from the comments I heard coming out of the theatre, everyone else in attendance would likely say the same.

As most truly incredible experiences go, it's hard to pick highlights; the entire set was a 90-minute long highlight that I wished would never end. Fittingly, opening numbers included the first five songs off of Adventures - a mesmerizing performance of Lighthouse was a particular standout.  We were also treated to a sweet rendition of Into Giants - slightly interrupted by a fits of laughter from the band who struggled to maneuver out of each other's way as they as they performed the piece around a single microphone in a cramped space at the front of the stage.

A neat extended version of Luscious Life was one of my favourite moments - partially because it was one of the songs I was hoping we'd hear. Somewhat surprisingly, Watson also lead the audience in the obligatory sing-along offering. The results were as you might expect. When someone of Patrick Watson's artistic caliber commands you to sing along on one of his best-known songs - in this case, Big Bird in a Small Cage - you might hesitate at first but, once you realize that he's actually serious, you take a leap and give it your all.

The real "pinch me I think I'm dreaming" moment came during the encore. The band performed Cinematic Orchestra's To Build a Home, the original recording of which featured Watson on vocals. If you're familiar with it you'll know it's an epic, emotional roller coaster of a song and it lost none of its hypnotizing drama in a haunting stripped-down rendition.

After the crowd's second standing ovation we were all left wanting more. Remembering the experience now, I believe that had it gone on forever it still wouldn't have been enough. Check out one of their live concerts and you'll see what I mean.

Halloween Playlist for Everday Listening

Every holiday seems to have it's list of if-I-never-hear-this-song-again-it-will-be-too-soon musical "favourites" and Halloween is no exception. "The Monster Mash" makes me cringe, but not in a good way, and I really don't want to listen to "Thriller" again. That said, I thought I'd put together a playlist of songs I currently enjoy listening to that fit the Halloween theme. I also included a few creepy oldies that I expect won't be in any danger of being overplayed by your local classic rock radio station.

Vampire, Pink Mountaintops
Outside Love, 2009

On first listen, Pink Mountaintops' music comes across as light and fun, but don't be fooled. The more familiar you get with their brand of dreamy psychedelia, the more you might start to perceive a discreet twisted quality lurking beneath the surface. Sweet but sinister lyrics drive the point home, "So kiss me, please kiss me...I'm done turning blue."

Additional Halloween bonus: the person who made this video synched the music with clips from the awesome Swedish horror flick, "Let the Right One In".



Mother Mother, Ghosting
O My Heart, 2008

This might be the one song on this list that doesn't quite belong. Yes, it's about a ghost in love with a living person, but he's just too well-adjusted. He's finished with the poltergeist parlor tricks most other ghosts play in order to get noticed. He's getting rid of his sheet and demanding that his love interest recognize him for what he is! Lack of creepiness aside, "Ghosting" is my favourite song from "O My Heart" and always worth a listen.



Bloodflow, Smog
Dongs of Sevotion, 2000

When it comes to being wryly disturbing, Bill Callahan takes the cake. I've noticed many reviews describe his music as vulnerable and melancholy. Really? I mean, I get the warm and intimate quality of his unadorned vocal stylings but doesn't that closeness come across as seeming a little too hot under the collar and bordering on claustrophobic when he starts singing things like, "No time for a tete-a-tete/Can I borrow your machete?"



Ma Meeshka Mow Skwoz, Mr. Bungle
Disco Valonte, 1995

There are some creepy doozies on this list, but this is the creepiest of them all. It starts out on a tame enough note with a retro, Ed Wood-inspired prelude that quickly spirals into madness. We're treated to a Tom and Jerry pandemonium-tinged hook, a manic wild west showdown theme, weird scatting in a made-up language that sounds kinda German and kinda demonic, and a freaky 'gotcha!' fade-out that makes you wonder if the nightmare will ever end. It's fun to listen to, but whatever state of mind Mike Patton was in when he wrote this song, I don't ever want to go there.



Bela Lugosi's Dead, Bauhaus
1979

This is the one song that often makes an appearance on cheesy Halloween playlists that I will make an exception for. After all, this list could use a good dance song. It may not have a catchy beat but I really did enjoy dancing to it back in the day. Going by the release date that was 30 years ago. Now that's scary!



What Halloween themed faves are you listening to these days?

2012 New Music Finds

My Cynic's New Year test press by Horse Feathers. Signed!

I've always been a bit of a music addict. Lately I've been buying a couple of albums a month...okay maybe more than a couple of albums. What can I say? 2012 has been a great year for music.

Of the albums I've purchased so far this year, these are the ones that have made it into heavy rotation in my playlists.

"Lonesome Dreams" by Lord Huron
Released October 9, 2012

"Lonesome Dreams" is the first full-length release by this L.A. based band and I LOVE it. Like many of the new bands I've become interested in over the past couple of years, Lord Huron's music is lush and layered with dreamy harmonies and infectious rhythms.

Note: If you're going to look into this one, I'd also highly recommend their previous two EPs, especially "Mighty".



"Cynic's New Year" by Horse Feathers
Released April 17, 2012

This is the album I most looked forward to at the beginning of 2012. Horse Feathers' previous release, "Thistled Spring" was my favourite album of 2010 and I anxiously awaited more. In fact, if there's anything that I could possibly criticize about this album, it's that it might have fulfilled my desires a little too perfectly. "Cynic's New Year" is filled with the same beautiful and melancholy, richly orchestrated music found on "Thistled Spring". Well, I'm not tired of it yet.

By the way, I finally had the chance to catch these guys in concert this year at the Rifflandia Festival. It was one of the richest and tightest sounding live performances I've ever experienced. Really now, how easy can it be to make a bowed saw sound fabulous in a live setting?



"Adventures in Your Own Back Yard" by Patrick Watson
Released April 16, 2012

It recently came as a shock to me to learn that not everyone loves Patrick Watson. I mean, what's not to like? His soul-piercing falsetto, or the fact that he doesn't write the kind of music you can 'rock out' to, or that he smokes on stage during performances? Whether or not he is an acquired taste, I have to say this, anyone who likes Patrick Watson is a friend of mine.

"Adventures in Your Own Back Yard" is a wonderful album. Every song is stamped with that characteristic gorgeous and graceful je ne sais quoi and yet every song is uniquely its own. It's the current front-runner for my favourite album of 2012.



"The End of That" by Plants and Animals
Released February 28, 2012

The first time I heard of Plants and Animals, I was watching them open for Grizzly Bear. It was one of those great experiences where I ended up liking the opening act more than the band I'd come to see. Plants and Animals are a solid indie rock outfit that puts on the some of the best live performances to be found these days. Though I expect some would not agree, I think "The End of That" is Plants and Animals' most pop-infused, accessible LP to date.



"Vision" by Grimes
Released January 31, 2012

My boyfriend laughs every time I say, "Montreal is on fire these days", but I don't think anyone would argue with the idea that it really is a hotbed of fantastic music as of late. In case you haven't noticed, of the five bands included in this list, three of them are from Montreal: Patrick Watson, Plants and Animals, and Grimes. Even when it comes to genres of music I don't usually like, I end up enjoying what Montreal has to offer.

Grimes' "Vision" is a perfect example. It's electronic, which isn't a genre I'm usually into, but it's also way more. Grimes' music is creative and fresh in a way that you'll just have to listen to to get an idea of.



If you have any suggestions for other new music I should look into, I'd love to hear them!

My Favourite Places on Vancouver Island: Broken Group Islands, PacificRim National Park

Broken Group Islands by kayak

Trip details:

Route: Port Alberni to Seachart Lodge via the MV Lady Rose

• Day 1: Seachart to Hand Island
• Day 2: Hand Island to Clarke Island
• Day 3: Clarke, Wouwer, Gilbert and Effingham Islands, return to Clarke
• Day 4: Clarke Island to Gibralter Island
• Day 5: Gilbert, Reeks and Nettle Islands, return to Gilbert
• Day 6: Gilbert to Seachart, return to Port Alberni via the MV Lady Rose

Location: Pacific Rim National Park, west coast of Vancouver Island

Trip costs:

• Kayak rental, ferry, ferry kayak transport and park fees, $370 per person
• Food: About $45 per person for 6 days

Our ride to Seachart Lodge:
Frances Barkley Ferry, MV Lady Rose

Our Broken Group Islands kayak trip was one of 3 kayaking overnighters we did around Vancouver Island this summer and was by far my favourite (though, I gotta say, they were all pretty spectacular). We were fairly lucky with the weather, crossed paths with seals, sea lions, otters, eagles and humpback whales, and, with the exception of a couple of slightly choppy channel crossings, encountered ideal paddling conditions.

We spent 6 days and 5 nights in the islands staying one night at Hand Beach, 2 nights at Clarke Island and 2 nights at Gibralter. We also toured by the other 4 campsites in the park. The best campsite we encountered was on the westward facing beach on Clarke Island where the sunsets were beyond description, the water was warm enough for swimming and we enjoyed one night of storm watching and one night of meteor viewing (gobsmacked, I tell you!)

Broken Group Island Tips

• We didn't come across any water sources in the park, though we did hear of a possible water source on Benson Island. We brought 4L of water per person per day (about 25L per person for 6 days in total) and found it was just enough.
• Most of the beaches are picked clean of smaller pieces of driftwood for campfires, but you can usually find ample supplies on nearby less busy islands. We would often set up camp and then head out to make a quick stop on a nearby island to load up our kayaks.
• The small beach on the east side of Nettle Island is a great place to stop for lunch or hang out if you've got some time to kill before catching the ferry at Seachart. For whatever reason this beach has the softest sand I've ever encountered in the north-west.
• Most of the culinary offerings in the ferry canteen on the Frances Barkley are pretty okay (from the point of view of someone who has been eating out of a backpack kitchen for close to a week), but steer clear of those hotdogs - unless you happen to enjoy fried baloney sandwiches.

Check out my Broken Group Islands photoset on Flickr.

One last stop before heading to Seachart to catch the ferry. We havethe beach all to ourselves :)

My Favourite Places on Vancouver Island: The Forbidden Plateau,Strathcona Provincial Park

Trail marker on Mount Albert Edward,
Forbidden Plateau, Strathcona Provincial Park

 
Trip details:

• Route: Paradise Meadows Trailhead to Circlet Lake to Mount Albert Edward summit and return
• Distance: Trailhead to Circlet Lake, 10.5km, Circlet Lake to summit, 6km (total 33km round trip)
• Maps and park details: Strathcona Park on BC Parks website
• Location: Strathcona Park, Mount Albert Edward on Google Maps
• Trail difficulty: Easy to moderate
• Our total trip cost:$110 for 2 nights camping and 3 days of hiking
  
  • 2 nights camping ($5 per night, per person), $20
  • Food, $40
  • Gas, $50

Though I wouldn't call a round trip from Paradise Meadows to the summit of Mount Albert Edward an easy hike, it's definitely one I'd recommend to people who have a bit of hiking under their belts and are looking to cut their teeth on a slightly more substantial trip. As summits and backpacking over nighters go, the easy to moderate hike up to the campsite is relatively short - about four hours - and once you're there you can set up basecamp and hike with a lighter pack on the moderately difficult climb to the summit. Depending on the weather, the hike up the mountain can be dangerous in spots and requires a healthy fitness level, but we encountered a few children on the hike this past weekend as well as some very fit light hikers who were completing the entire circuit in one day.

We set out from Victoria after work on Friday and arrived at the trailhead parking lot 3 and half hours later. Facilities at the parking lot are sparse but there is a pit toilet and an information centre open during the day. We camped at the parking lot that night and hit the trail just before 9am the following day.

The hike to Circlet Lake from the trailhead begins with an easy stroll along wide boardwalks past many pretty lakes and flowering meadows. 3km down the trail we reached Lake Helen Mackenzie, where we stopped for a quick break before continuing on to Kwai Lake. From this point on the trail gets a bit more difficult and less well maintained with a few moderate gains in elevation and patches of snow (even in early August).

We arrived at Circlet Lake just before 1pm and were happy to snag the last remaining site by the water. After a quick dip (it was a bit too cold to enjoy a swim) we set up camp and enjoyed an afternoon relaxing by the lake and taking in the views. Our more ambitious neighbours spent the rest of the day checking out the ridge across from the lake which they reported was a great hike though it required a bit of bushwhacking.

The next day we started out on the trail at 9am to summit Mount Albert Edward. The first part of the hike is the most difficult and includes a steep climb up to the first plateau where we were rewarded with a nice view of Moat Lake. With all the snow, we lost the trail a couple of times but it wasn't too hard to spot the rock pile markers as it was a clear day. We did hear reports that navigating the trail can be very difficult in foggy conditions.

After the first plateau there's another short and slightly less steep climb towards the ice fields. If the weather is clear bring your sunscreen because you're going to bake like a potato. Having underestimated the amount of sunscreen required for the trip we both suffered from nasty sunburns by the end of the day. Wear lots - I mean, gallons. A word from the wise, though warm temperatures might temp you to wear a tank top, I'd also recommend loose fitting, light coloured clothing that covers your back and shoulders. One other note, a man we encountered in the campsite the night before had suffered mild heat stroke on the mountain the day before so take it easy if you need to and make sure you drink lots of water on the way up. There are plenty of ponds along the way where you can fill up your water bottle.

The final approach up to the summit is loose gravel and a bit steep. Watch your step! We reached the top shortly after 1pm and spent about an hour resting and marveling at the views before beginning our descent which took another 4 hours. We arrived back at our basecamp around 6pm. Some of the other groups we encountered at the summit spent the afternoon summiting Mount Jutland or Castlecrag returning to the campground just before sunset between 9 and 10pm.

If you're up for a moderately challenging hike with some priceless high altitude views, you'll likely find a trip on the Forbidden Plateau to be just the ticket. We had an unforgettable time and I can't wait to go back. Gobsmacked, I tell you!

Check out my Forbidden Pleateau Flickr set.