Camino Day 21: León to Mazarife, 22km

Chef Gustavo and a delicious paella
in the dining room at Albergue San Antonio de Padua

I've discovered another favourite albergue on the Camino, Albergue San Antonio de Padua. I expect it will easily make my list of best albergues, along with the well appointed Albergue Santo Domingo. While the latter will make my list because of the quality of the facilities and services it possesses, the Albergue San Antonio de Padua makes the grade mainly because of Carlos, the albergue's fantastic hospitalario, who oversees all of the facility's operations - from registering guests, to cooking meals to cleaning and doing laundry.

Where meals were concerned, Carlos cooked us an unforgettable meal that included a delicious salad, pumpkin soup, paella and crêpes for dessert. Every dish was delicious and made with love - nothing was under or over cooked, everything was perfectly spiced and each plate's presentation suggested an attention to detail I have not encountered with meals we've eaten at any other albergues.

To top off the meal, he performed a traditional Gaelic ritual, A Queimada, featuring an alcoholic beverage and coffee beans set aflame in a large bowl. It turned out to be one of the most interesting cultural experiences we've encountered on the Camino.

In the morning, Carlos drove one of our friends to a doctor to have her injured ankle looked at and then onto the next town where she could catch a bus to our next stop on the Camino. I expect this made for a very busy morning as the albergue still needed to be cleaned and prepared for the next batch of tired and weary pilgrims, but he seemed more than willing to take on the extra burden. If that's not going above and beyond the call of duty, I'm not sure what is.

Fresh churros for breakfast!

Camino Day 20: Mansilla de las Mullas to León, 19km

We're spending the night in the last big town on the Camino before we get to Santiago and I am taking a night off! We've checked into a hostel (for the exorbitant cost of 45 euros for a double room with a private bath) and have made plans to meet up with our extended Camino family for tapas and some merrymaking! Catch you tomorrow!

Camino Day 19: Calzada de los Hermanillos to Mansilla de las Mullas, 25km

Yesterday we passed by the halfway marker for the Camino Frances, just outside Sahagún, Spain. 400km down, about 400km left to go. I also sustained my first injury (a strained calf muscle) at roughly the same time so, after hiking 19 days with relatively few impediments to break my stride, I found myself shuffling across the halfway point whimpering like a baby. Meh.

As far as the injury was concerned, after a stop in Sahagún to grab some lunch and do a quick assessment, I perhaps foolhardily came to the conclusion that things weren't serious enough to warrant getting off the road straight away. That said, I limped my way through the rest of the day with the assurance the following two days we'd be taking on much shorter distances (25km today and 19km into Leon tomorrow). I suppose it's possible I'm risking serious injury by staying on the road, but at this point, just about everyone we're hiking with is nursing some type of injury so my experience is simply somewhat par for the course. Besides, we're still on schedule to arrive in Leon in time to enjoy Saturday night in the big city - a little fun and merrymaking might be just what the doctor ordered.

But enough of the injury and back to more important developments at hand - a little under 3 weeks in and we are halfway to Santiago! As one might expect, reaching this point has brought the end of our journey on the Camino into sharper focus. We've still got quite a ways to go, but the distance feels a bit less vast now. The end is in sight - it might be a teeny tiny speck on the horizon, but it is there.

Camino Day 18: Calzadilla de la Cueza to Calzada de los Hermanillos, 37km

Today was our 2nd day of taking on extra kilometres (in following with our plan to arrive in Leon on Saturday instead of Sunday). It was gruelling and we're all feeling exhausted and a bit frayed around the edges.

Our guidebook, "A Pilgrim's Guide to the Camino de Santiago" by John Brierly, usually suggests taking on between 20 and 30km a day. We've noticed that it's one of the more popular Camino reference guides amoungst the group we've been hiking with and most seem to be handling the pace well. The few times we've strayed from the recommended route and taken on extra kilometres, we've always found it to be a challenge - our additional effort rewarded with a new blister, or a new foot or leg ache, or feeling extra tired for the next day or two.

It's all relative though. We've met many peregrinos who travel at a more leisurely pace, regularly hiking 10-15km a day. At the other end of the scale, we sometimes cross paths with a peregrino who travels at a notably quicker pace that the rest of the pack. Most notably, we met a Swede who usually knocks off about 60km a day - almost keeping pace with some of the slower bikers and runners.

The distance each hiker covers on a daily basis is just one straightforward example of how we're all traveling our own Camino. There are of course a million other ways each of us is having their own Camino experience. It's not my place to tell others' stories but as luck would have it, I don't have to. Here's a few links to blogs by folks whom I've met while hiking the Camino:

• Calll of the Camino
• Remonttireissut

Camino Day 17: Fromista to Calzadilla de la Cueza, 38km

Well, we did it. After a bit of discussion with a few of our fellow hikers, 5 of us made the decision to jump ahead an extra 17km on top of the 21km we were already planning to hike today. As it turns out, it was pretty good day to take on the extra distance. The trail was the flattest we've encountered on the Camino. We also shipped one of our bags to make the walk as easy as possible.

The last stretch of today's hike was along 17km of ancient Roman road. At one point it was used to take gold from Galicia to Rome. These days, it's little more than a gravel path traversing farmland that stretches as far as the eye can see…and then some. It really does feel endless. At about kilometre 15 I began to feel as if I'd walked into the play "Waiting for Godot. I lost track of how long we'd been walking, where we were walking to and where we had come from. When Calzadilla de la Cueza finally appeared, it almost seemed like a mirage.

Now that we've had a a good meal and settled into our somewhat spartan but cozy albergue, things seem to be getting back to 'normal'. Of course, after hiking almost twice the distance we usually do in a day, there's no getting around feeling more rough around the edges than usual. Time to get the boots off and get into bed!

Camino Day 16: Castrojeriz to Fromista, 25km

462km to Santiago

 Expenses (in euros):

Coffee and tortilla, 3
Hostel, 7
Groceries, 5
Dinner, 12
Total:

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I mentioned a few posts back that our group had split up into smaller subgroups when we hiked onto the Meseta. The majority of the folks who pressed onward with plans to take on longer hiking days across the Meseta were actually from Spain. We're now realizing we should have taken a tip from their plans and perhaps followed suit. Though the Meseta is lovely, it is a long - as in seemingly without end - stretch of unchanging landscape. What's more, most of the hike across the Meseta is fairly flat and on dirt paths that are easy on the feet - perfect conditions for jumping ahead a day or two in your hiking itinerary.

Of course, we could take our time and continue to savour the quiet stillness of the Meseta, in truth, part of me is relishing this opportunity to hit the hay early for a change and get a good long sleep in each night. On the flip side, I'm missing the boisterous company of our extended group of hiking companions - the original crowd we began hiking with. What's more, the easy hiking conditions mean we're finishing up our day's hike before noon. Arriving at our destination city with most of the day still before us feels like a bit of a wasted opportunity.

If we jump ahead tomorrow we'll have to hike 37km, the longest distance Baasje and I have ever hiked in one day, ever. It's possible this might do a number of on feet so tackling such a long stretch is an undertaking we'll have to consider carefully. Stay tuned for updates...

Camino Day 15: Honillos del Camino to Castrojeriz, 20km

On the Spanish Maseta

Expenses (in euros):

Coffee and tortilla, 3
Hostel, 5
Groceries, 3
Dinner, 10
Total: 21 

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Our guidebook keeps referring to the Meseta as "the lonely Maseta". At first I didn't see it, but now I'm starting to get where the author is coming from. The long stretches between villages and the lack of noise (the loudest sound we heard today was the sound of the wind) are providing the perfect environment for self-reflection and the occasional one-on-one conversation.

A common topic of discussion is life choices. Just about everyone we've spoken to has a recent or upcoming life change to contemplate and choices to make - new living arrangements, a career change, transitioning into retirement, students graduating from university or college contemplating how to begin their careers, and on and on - I expect the list is as long as the number of people who walk the Camino. Naturally, many are using their time on the Camino to contemplate options.

Baasje and I have our own life changes to contemplate and choices to consider. It's been great to have long stretches of time to ourselves to discuss the possibilities. It's also been helpful to hear about other hikers' life experiences and get their thoughts on their successes and challenges. Its a diverse group of folks and when we're contemplating a specific topic or question, we almost always find ourselves in the company of someone who has some relevant comments to add to the discussion.

Early on in the journey, just after we left Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, we were asked to fill out a survey about our reasons for hiking the Camino. I passed over "religious" and "spiritual" and went for "cultural" and "sport/recreation" but I might provide different answers if I were asked to fill out that same survey at this point. My experience is turning out to be as much a personal journey of growth and self-discovery as a physical one.

Camino, Day 14: Burgos to Hornillos del Camino, 21km

Early morning start on the Meseta

Expenses (in euros):

Snacks and lunch, 3
Hostel, 5
Groceries, 5
Dinner, 10
Total: 23

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Today we hiked onto the Meseta which had been described to us as a desert-like region in Spain. At first glance, it looks more like a prairie landscape with endless grasslands, rocky soil and not much else. I've read in our guide book that it will take a number of days to hike across it and during this time the villages will be spaced further apart. There will also be fewer services than we're used to, smaller albergues with less amenities. On this first day, the quiet villages and slower pace of life are actually a welcome change. At the moment we're sitting in the sun in a square with a few other hikers - most of us submersed in solitary activities, reading books, sipping coffee, checking emails.

The smaller albergues and distance between villages means that the group we've been hiking with has split into smaller subgroups. A few folks have stayed behind in Burgos to get an extra days rest with plans to take on longer days across the Meseta. A few of us have continued on and are breaking the trip up into smaller sections of about 20km (we're in this group). And some of the hardiest among us have pressed forward with plans to cross the expanse in a couple of days

It's likely a good number of the folks we parted ways with today, we'll never see again, but we're getting used to the comings and goings of friends on the Camino. After all, it isn't always goodbye forever. From time to time we unexpectedly run into familiar faces we thought we'd hiked away from. Earlier today, for example, we pulled into Hornillos just in time to catch our friends from upstate New York who had stopped in town for a quick lunch. Though we'd only previously met and shared dinner with them one night about a week back, our reunion felt a little like running into old friends. Strange how these things can happen...

That's why you never say goodbye on the Camino, just 'hasta luego!'

Camino Day 13, Ages to Burgos, 22km

The streets of Burgos, Spain

Expenses (in euros):

Coffee, 4
Hostel, 5
Groceries, 4
Tapas and wine, 17
Total: 30

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The last 10km of today's 22km hike wasn't my favourite stretch of the Camino - an arrow straight section of busy road leading into Burgos, bordered on either side by factories, warehouses, big box stores and other commercial/industrial gewgaw. I'm only telling you this so you might share in the surprise of my next revelation - Burgos takes the cake for our favourite large-ish city on the Camino (so far, at least).

The streets of Burgos are a wanderer's paradise - a maze of picture perfect cobblestone streets and squares lined with historic buildings and connected by impressive archways. Banners hung from the occasional building announced that Burgos has been chosen by The New York Times as Spain's top tourist destination for 2013. As if that were not enough, the town has also been named Spain's 2013 gastronomical capital.

Though most Spanish people wait until 8pm or later to begin enjoying tapas, our empty bellies lead us to hit the restaurants at the early hour of 4pm. As siesta was just ending, we had the luck of being able to observe which spots were popular with the locals. We ended up choosing a cozy looking restaurant on a narrow street off one of the main squares. The cost were very reasonable (especially for Burgos where we noticed many of the restaurants charge 4-star prices), the portions where a good size and the flavours were out of this world.

Here's a few pics of some of the yummy tapas we enjoyed - I know it hasn't been long since I posted one of these food galleries, but the meals we've been enjoying on the Camino are amazing! I expect I could post one of these everyday!

Black pudding

Stuffed mushrooms

Calamari

Asparagus with bacon

Camino Day 12: Belorado to Ages

Sunflowers on the way to Ages, Spain

Expenses (in euros):

Hostel, 9
Group dinner, 10
Groceries, 4
Coffee and tea, 4
Total: 27

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Our decision to ship our bags in order to give our feet a rest was such a success yesterday, we decided to do it again today! With only light packs on our backs, it felt like we were flying down the trail today and we made it to Ages in record time. As an added bonus, much of today's hike was on 'natural paths', across rural fields and over wooded hills.

None of the hostels in Ages have kitchens so we were left with the option of purchasing dinner in Ages - which our guidebook tells me has a population of  60 people and not a lot of dinner options. Luckily, we were visiting a small bar and store down the street and the establishment's owner offered to cook us a regional dinner of vegetable soup, empanadas and mixed charcuterie for the bargain price of 6 euros per person.

So that's how we came to spend an unforgettable evening in a small restaurant and bar in rural Spain, enjoying a delicious private dinner, which we washed down with a few bottles of fabulous Spanish wine, and fantastic conversation with new acquaintances. Buen provecho, indeed!

San Juan de Ortega

The way to Ages

Dinner in Ages

Camino Day 11: Santo Domingo to Belorado

Picking up supplies for dinner in Belorado

Expenses (in euros)

Backpack transportation, 7
Coffee, 2
Hostel, 6
Groceries, 10
Laundry, 3
Total: 28

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Though we've been pretty lucky so far with avoiding serious foot and leg problems we're starting to see some signs that some critical issues may be developing. In hopes of nipping things in the bud, we decided to ship our bags using the Jacotrans courier service so we could walk the day's relatively short and fairly level distance of 20km without all that heavy weight on our backs. What a treat! We arrived at the albergue - the cramped but cheerful Cuatro Cantones - in great spirits.

After a bit of fun hanging out on the deck of the hostel's pool - that's right, they have a pool! - we took a short stroll through town with a few of the other hikers to check out the sights, visit a leather and fur store (not sure why we ended up there, but the jackets were fabulous) and get supplies for dinner. Where the latter goal was concerned, we stopped into a "Productos Artesanos" to pick up some local specialty items. The Spanish hikers in the group pointed out some of their favourite recommendations - which wines to look out for, which chocolates and sweets are popularly purchased for special occasions, which brands of sardines are the best. Good knowledge to have!

Now we're back at the hostel where about 60 of us are jostling for space in a kitchen with one stove and enough space for 20. It's a bit of a three ring circus but the mood is light and friendly...and the smells are delicious!

At the "Productos Artesanos"

Dinner time at Cuatro Cantones

Camino Day 9 & 10: Logroño to Nájera to Santo Domingo

Dinner time in the albergue

Expenses (in euros)

Day 9 to Nájera
Hostel, 5
Groceries, 9
Total: 14

Day 10 to Santo Domingo

Hostel, 7
Groceries, 9
Total: 16

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When doing research to figure out how much money we should budget for the Camino, I came across wildly conflicting information online. Some sites suggested we would have no problem sticking to a 25 euros per day budget, others recommended setting aside 45 euros per day minimum for accommodations alone. From our experience so far, and the experiences of the other hikers we've been spending time with, both suggestions seem to make sense depending on your approach.

How much money hikers spend on the Camino on a daily basis depends mainly on what each individual's finances can accommodate and, to some extent, the type of experience being sought. Though there's no getting around the gruelling challenge of hiking 500 miles, there are a number of support services available for those with a little extra cash to shell out that can make the going less strenuous. For example, you can ship your belongings by courier each day (or at least on days when you'd like a rest) for the reasonable cost of 7 euros. If you go this route you'll only need to carry what you need for the day - food and beverages and extra clothing if needed - in a small day pack. If carrying a small day pack is still beyond what you'd like to take on, some guide companies position support vans at regular intervals along the day's hike to provide food and supplies - beverages, fresh fruit, medical supplies, etc.

For the "average joe" peregrino, where food requirements are concerned, you have a number of options for keeping your furnace stoked. You can purchase food at the Supermercado and cook your meals in the albergue at night for a surprisingly reasonable daily cost, or you can indulge in the culinary offerings of the many fine restaurants you'll find along the way for about 5 euros and up per meal. For accommodation, you can usually find a bed in a municipal or private albergue for somewhere between 5-10 euros. If you'd prefer more privacy, a double room in a small hotel or "casa rural" usually costs between 30-45 euros and can go up from there depending on the level of luxury you're looking to attain…to some extent.

The quality of the albergues and hotels along the Camino fluctuates wildly. A budget traveler might stay in a lovely recently renovated albergue with full amenities in a historic building for 5 euros, while a traveler with a bigger budget for accommodations might end up in a poorly maintained and serviced 3-star hotel for 8 times the price. You never quite know what to expect at the end of the day - unless, of course, you've recently hiked the Camino and are staying at the exact same spots you stayed in the last time around.

Which brings me to my reflection on our Camino experience over the past couple of days. We had such a fantastic stay at the albergue in Santo Domingo (cost by donation) I thought it warranted a mention in a blog post. We were greeted at reception by two friendly gentlemen who offered us chorizo on fresh bread, wine and watermelon slices. Oh yes! The newly restored and expanded building was extremely clean and spacious with plenty of bathrooms and shower stalls (with lots of hot water), a large kitchen (with a stove AND an oven!), large dining area and even a lounge area with comfy leather sofas. As far as outdoor spaces go, the albergue's quiet courtyard had a nice grassy yard with a huge picnic table and a chicken coop (in a nod to a local legend that features a chicken that plays a key role in saving a young man's life).

I also wanted to mention that the helpful staff at all the establishments we've stayed at so far have been wonderful. Many of the municipal albergues along the Camino are staffed completely by volunteers who run the registration desks and take care of day-to-day operations out of the goodness of their hearts. Many go beyond the call of duty to assist hikers with treating their foot and leg ailments, provide tips and advice on local sights to see, and help sort out details when minor issues occur - like when you arrive at the next albergue and realize you left your adaptor behind at the last one. God bless the albergue volunteers!

What Baasje Learned Today

The Spanish Meseta is beautiful!

Camino Day 8: Torres del Rio to Logroño

Mushrooms at Bar Soriano in Logroño

The food we ate in Logroño tonight was amazing! That said, I thought this might be the perfect opportunity to share some pics of some of the delicious things we've eaten as we've traveled the Camino (so far, that is). YUM!

Tapas

Tapas are small dishes of meats, cheese, fruits and vegetables deliciously prepared and served up in small portions. They're also for sharing with friends and enjoying with a glass of beer or wine.

Anchovy and roasted peppers

Papas bravas with spicy sauce

Pilgrims' Menu

Many restaurants on the Camino offer a "Pilgrim's Menu" that usually consists of your choice of three courses - a starter, a main course and a dessert - and sometimes include a drink (coffee, tea, or if you're really lucky wine or beer). They usually cost about 10 euros, are very filling and usually tasty.

 

Everyday Meals

To save a little dough, we usually eat food we've bought from the supermercado (supermarket) for breakfast, lunch and sometimes dinner. This doesn't mean these meals aren't a five-star event though. For breakfast we usually eat dried chorizo and cheese, fresh bread from the panaderia and fruit. Lunch is often sardines or pâté and more bread and fruit (Spain seems to have as many different brands of sardines as their are colours under the sun and we've endeavoured to try them all). In the evening, if the albergue we're staying in has a good kitchen, we'll cook dinner using local fresh produce and delicious cured meats. Mmmm!

Campo Viejo for 4.50 euros? Gotta love it!

What Baasje Learned Today

What Dutch People Love? Dutch people actually really do love these things...this is Arnold, the Dutchman who proved it to me anew!

Camino Day 7: Estella to Torres del Rio

Free wine fountain!

Today was pretty much as close to rainbows and unicorns as you can get - even better in fact, it was literally rainbows and a free wine fountain! We walked out of Estella in the early morning to find a full rainbow waiting for us just on the edge of town. As if that weren't enough, a few hundred metres later we came across a sign that invited peregrinos to stop and enjoy some wine from the Bodegas Irache wine 

Unfortunately, the wine fountain was empty (we suspected this might be a common occurrence on weekends) but at 7 o'clock in the morning it was a disappointment that was easy enough to overlook. Though we didn't get to actually sample the wine, it was still pretty cool to discover that a free wine fountain actually exists.

The euphoria of the rainbow and free wine fountain aside, the longer distance (28km) took it's toll by the end of the day. Our feet were pretty sore when we walked - or more accurately, stumbled - into Torres del Rio. It's not as bad as it might sound, our ailments have remained mostly manageable - usually nothing a hot shower and a few hours rest won't fix. We quickly set about addressing both these 'tasks' as soon as we'd checked into the comfortable and homey Casa de Mari. I must mention that Mari is a lovely, friendly woman who always seems to have a smile on her face.

The trials of the day were quickly forgotten over dinner with new friends - two great guys from upstate New York. We haven't crossed paths with them until now as they've been staying at smaller mom-and-pop run albergues instead of the larger albergues we usually stay at. After today, we may end up hiking the Camino at a similar pace, but it's likely we won't run into them again. For tonight though, we'll share a good meal washed down with a bottle or two of wine and enjoy this gorgeous evening in the Spanish countryside together. Tomorrow we'll bid each other 'buen Camino' and go our separate ways.

Camino Day 6: Puenta la Reina to Estella

Delivery of the adapter that we accidentally left in Cizur Menor, 7
Hostel, 7
Laundry, 3
Wine, 5

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As if to make due for all of yesterday's difficulties, today was a real prize winner as far as the Camino goes. The skies parted just after sunrise and we saw mixed sun and cloud for the rest of the day - enough sun to keep things cheerful and enough cloud to keep the temperatures cool. The trail was as flat as we've seen it so far and, most importantly, we walked most of the day on dirt paths that were much gentler on the feet than concrete and asphalt.

We wrapped up the day's journey in Estella at the town's municipal albergue and my feet felt fairly okay for a change. The albergue is a bit on the crowded side with about 18 beds in each room, but the bathrooms and showers are pretty clean and appear to have been recently renovated. The albergue also has a large kitchen and nice courtyard with a tree a grassy area.

On the down side, we bid goodbye to a couple of fellow travelers who came to the conclusion that the foot/leg ailments they were suffering were severe enough that it was time to get off the road. In both cases, they probably should have gotten off the road about 30km ago, but I expect no one says an early goodbye to the Camino until it's obvious there are no other options.

We've been with the same group of hikers, more or less, for almost a week now - each night we see a few new faces and catch up with a good number of familiar ones. We've walked more than 100km of the toughest stretch of the Camino together, shared food and given each other support and encouragement. It was surprisingly sad to hear the news two of our new friends were leaving and we lingered over our goodbyes, taking pictures and wishing each other well.

There's a tinge of sadness in the hostel tonight though, as is more common as of late, the general mood is one of relaxation and playfulness. In the final moments before lights-out, eighteen of us jostle for space in the cramped dorm. We joke with each other, engage in good-natured teasing and clumsily climb into bunk beds that are spaced a little too closely together - okay, much too closely together. Pillow fights almost break out. When we finally settle into our sleeping bags it takes a few moments for things to calm down completely. We call out our good nights to each other in the darkness. "Buenos noches. Bonne nuit. Goodnight. Hasta tomorrow."

What Baasje Learned Today

I actually learned this a couple weeks ago...Chateau de Chambord was a hunting lodge commissioned by Francois 1of France.

Camino, Day 5: Cizur Menor to Puente La Reina

Leaving Cizur Menor before sunrise

Tough going today. It was one of those days were I had trouble getting moving in the morning. Of course it wasn't any help that it was raining pretty steadily when we left the hostel, oh yes, before sunrise, in the dark. The day's hike was mainly made up of a long steady climb up a high ridge and then a slippery descent down the other side. We might have been rewarded with a stunning view from the summit - had it not been so foggy…

So, it's not all wine and roses when you're hiking the Camino. Some days the weather can be rough, or your gear breaks down at an inopportune moment, or you realize you've left some important part of your kit behind at the last hostel (incidentally, all 3 of these things happened to us on this very day). When we reached the hostel in Puenta La Reina the misfortune continued. More of our hiking companions were succumbing to the types of critical injuries that can be expected when hiking 20-30km day after day. A few were contemplating going home (we learned that 20% of hikers who begin the Camino drop out within the first week).

Things were looking pretty dim…

…but then the sun suddenly appeared, and we took a stroll around Puenta la Reina, which I believe is one of the most beautiful towns we've stopped in so far along the way. At dinner, Baasje taught the Korean and Japanese travelers how to flip their vegetable pancakes without the aid of a pancake flipper and became a hero. We sat in the main room sharing food we had cooked with the other 'peregrinos'. We smiled and laughed together and eventually forgot about (or at least were able to overlook) our sore feet and tired muscles. We taught each other languages (Spanish, French, German, Italian, Portuguese and Japanese, to name a few), passed on tips about traveling in our respective countries and had such a good time that before we knew it it was well past the hour many of us normally turn in. Oh yes, it was one of those nights. The kind of night you wish didn't have to end.

The streets of Puenta la Reina

Homes in Puenta la Reina

Roman bridge

The dinner Baasje helped cook

Friends we've made along the way...